I. Understanding the Basics of Infrared Photography
* Infrared Light: Light beyond the visible spectrum, invisible to the human eye. IR photography captures this light, rendering foliage bright white and skies dramatically dark.
* The IR Filter: Crucial for blocking visible light and allowing only infrared light to pass through.
* The "IR Chrome" Look: While not the specific goal for B&W, understand that IR photography can be manipulated to produce vibrant, false-color images. We're focusing on a more classic B&W approach.
* Hotspots: Common artifacts in IR photography. They are bright spots, usually in the center of the image, caused by internal reflections within the lens. Lens choice is very important (see lens considerations).
II. Methods for Capturing Infrared Images
There are two main ways to do infrared photography.
* A. Using an IR Filter on a Standard Camera:
* How it Works: You attach a strong IR filter (e.g., 720nm, 830nm, or even stronger) to the front of your lens. The filter blocks nearly all visible light, forcing the camera to rely on infrared.
* Pros:
* No permanent camera modification.
* Lower cost of entry.
* Can use any camera (digital or film).
* Cons:
* Extremely long exposures required, even in bright sunlight (seconds or minutes). Requires a sturdy tripod.
* Difficult to compose and focus because you can't see through the viewfinder with the filter on.
* Live view is typically needed to focus.
* Results can be inconsistent due to varying IR sensitivity of different cameras.
* Hotspots are more pronounced.
* B. Converting a Camera for Dedicated Infrared Use:
* How it Works: The camera's internal hot mirror (IR cut filter) is physically removed and replaced with a filter that blocks visible light. This makes the camera permanently sensitive to infrared light. Two major methods exist for conversion:
* Full-Spectrum Conversion: The hot mirror is removed and replaced with clear glass. This makes the camera capable of capturing UV, visible, and IR light. You then attach IR filters to the lens to control the IR spectrum.
* Dedicated IR Conversion: The hot mirror is removed and replaced with an IR filter of a specific wavelength (e.g., 720nm, 830nm). This makes the camera dedicated to capturing IR light around that specific wavelength. Often easier to get consistent results with B&W.
* Pros:
* Shorter, more manageable exposure times (often similar to regular photography).
* Easier to compose and focus.
* Better image quality, especially in terms of sharpness and less noise.
* More consistent results.
* Cons:
* Requires permanent modification of the camera.
* Camera can no longer be used for regular visible-light photography (unless a full-spectrum conversion is done and you use filters).
* Significant cost for the conversion.
III. The Camera Conversion Process (Dedicated IR):
This is typically done by a professional camera conversion service. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS YOURSELF UNLESS YOU ARE EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRONICS REPAIR.
1. Choose a Camera:
* Older DSLRs or Mirrorless Cameras: Often a good choice because you can dedicate them to IR without sacrificing your primary camera. Sensor size matters less than overall performance.
* Check for Compatibility: Some cameras convert better than others. Research which models are known to produce good IR results. Older Canon or Nikon DSLRs are frequently used for conversions.
* Live View is Essential: For focusing, especially on converted mirrorless cameras.
* Consider a Backup Camera: This allows you to continue normal photography while your IR camera is being converted.
2. Choose a Conversion Service:
* Research Thoroughly: Read reviews, compare prices, and check the service's reputation.
* Inquire About Warranty: Make sure the service offers a warranty on their work.
* Common Conversion Services: LifePixel, Kolari Vision, Spencer's Camera and Photo.
3. Choose a Wavelength: This is *crucial* as it defines the look of your images.
* 720nm: A popular choice. It blocks most visible light, producing strong IR effects (bright foliage, dark skies). Often considered a good balance.
* 830nm: Blocks nearly all visible light. Results in the purest IR effect, often leading to very dark skies and a very surreal look. May need more post-processing.
* 590nm: More false color effects, and may require a black and white conversion for best results. You can still get IR effects, but the world will be tinted, especially in the reds and yellows.
* Consider your shooting style: 720nm is a good starting point. If you want the most extreme IR look, go for 830nm.
4. Send Your Camera: Carefully package your camera and ship it to the conversion service.
5. Conversion Process: The service will disassemble the camera, remove the hot mirror, and replace it with the chosen filter. They will then reassemble the camera and test it.
6. Receive Your Converted Camera: Once the conversion is complete, the service will ship your camera back to you.
IV. Lenses for Infrared Photography
* Hotspots are Your Enemy: Some lenses are prone to hotspots in IR photography. Test lenses before relying on them.
* Wide-Angle Lenses: Popular for landscapes, but also more likely to exhibit hotspots.
* Prime Lenses: Often perform better than zoom lenses in terms of sharpness and hotspot control.
* Older Lenses: Sometimes, older lenses designed before digital sensors perform well in IR. This is not a hard and fast rule.
* Lens Coatings: Modern lens coatings can sometimes interfere with IR transmission. Research lenses that are known to be IR-friendly.
* Trial and Error: The best way to find lenses that work well is to test them with your converted camera.
V. Shooting Techniques for Black and White Infrared Landscape Photography
* Shoot in RAW: This gives you the most flexibility in post-processing.
* Exposure:
* Expose to the Right (ETTR): Because IR cameras are often more prone to noise in the shadows, slightly overexposing your images (without clipping highlights) can help improve image quality. Check your histogram.
* Understand Metering: Your camera's meter may not be accurate in IR. Experiment with different metering modes (e.g., center-weighted, spot) and exposure compensation.
* Focusing:
* Focus Manually: Autofocus can be unreliable with IR. Use live view and manual focus.
* Focus Slightly Behind the Subject: Infrared light focuses slightly differently than visible light. Some photographers recommend focusing slightly behind the subject to compensate.
* Composition:
* Look for Foliage: Foliage reflects infrared light strongly, so include plenty of trees, grass, and other plants in your compositions.
* Skies: Expect dark, dramatic skies. Clouds will stand out sharply against the dark background.
* Water: Water typically absorbs IR light, rendering it dark and sometimes reflective.
* Weather:
* Sunny Days: Produce the strongest IR effects.
* Cloudy Days: Can still produce interesting results, but the IR effect will be less pronounced.
* Filters (Even on a Converted Camera): While not *always* necessary, you can use colored filters (e.g., red, orange, yellow) to further enhance the B&W conversion and darken skies. A polarizing filter can help reduce glare.
VI. Post-Processing for Black and White Infrared Images
* Software: Adobe Lightroom, Adobe Photoshop, Capture One, or other RAW processing software.
* White Balance: The initial white balance will likely be way off. Adjust it to a more neutral setting. Experiment to find what works best for your image.
* Black and White Conversion:
* Use a Dedicated B&W Tool: Software like Silver Efex Pro 3 (part of the Nik Collection) provides excellent control over B&W conversions, allowing you to adjust contrast, tonality, and grain.
* Channel Mixer: In Photoshop, the Channel Mixer allows you to control the contribution of each color channel to the B&W image. Experiment with different channel combinations to create the desired effect. Often, the red channel will be the most prominent.
* Contrast and Tonality:
* Increase Contrast: IR images often benefit from increased contrast to enhance the drama.
* Adjust Highlights and Shadows: Fine-tune the highlights and shadows to create the desired mood.
* Curves Adjustments: Use curves to further refine the tonality of the image.
* Sharpening: Sharpen your images carefully, as IR images can sometimes be softer than regular images.
* Noise Reduction: Apply noise reduction if necessary, especially in the shadows.
* Dodging and Burning: Use dodging and burning to selectively lighten or darken areas of the image, guiding the viewer's eye and enhancing the composition.
* Hotspot Removal: If your lens produced a hotspot, use a combination of dodging, burning, and cloning to remove it. The spot healing brush in Photoshop can be helpful. Be subtle! Overdoing this will look unnatural.
VII. Key Considerations Before Converting:
* Cost: Camera conversion can be expensive (several hundred dollars or more).
* Permanent Modification: You will be permanently altering your camera. Are you comfortable with this?
* Learning Curve: IR photography has a learning curve. Be prepared to experiment and practice.
* Lens Compatibility: Factor in the cost of buying lenses that work well with IR, if necessary.
In summary, converting a camera for infrared photography is a significant investment, but it can be incredibly rewarding for black and white landscape enthusiasts. By understanding the principles of IR photography, choosing the right equipment, mastering shooting techniques, and learning how to process IR images, you can create stunning and unique photographs. Research, experiment, and enjoy the creative possibilities of the infrared spectrum!