I. Camera Conversion: The Key Steps
* Understanding the Process: The core of IR conversion involves removing the camera's internal "hot mirror" or infrared (IR) cut filter and replacing it with a filter that allows only infrared light to reach the sensor.
* Choosing a Camera Body:
* Mirrorless vs. DSLR: Both can be converted. Mirrorless cameras often offer focusing advantages and better live view for IR.
* Older Models: Older cameras (e.g., early digital SLRs) are often used, as they are less valuable and therefore the financial risk of conversion is lower. But you can convert modern cameras if you're serious.
* Sensor Quality: A clean, low-noise sensor is essential.
* Live View is Highly Recommended: Live View is crucial for focusing in IR because the focus point often shifts.
* Selecting a Conversion Type: This is the most critical decision. Different IR filters allow varying amounts of visible light to pass through, influencing the look of the final image.
* Full Spectrum Conversion (most versatile): The hot mirror is completely removed and replaced with clear glass. This allows you to use *external* IR filters (screw-on filters for your lens) of various wavelengths. The benefits of full spectrum are:
* Flexibility: You can use different filters for different effects, from deep black and white IR to false color IR.
* Reversibility: While not easy, you *could* theoretically re-insert the hot mirror later (very unlikely though).
* Allows other filter options: You can use UV or other filters if needed.
* Dedicated IR Conversion (720nm, 830nm, etc.): The hot mirror is replaced with a filter that only transmits light above a specific wavelength (e.g., 720nm, 830nm, 850nm, 950nm). Common options:
* 720nm: Offers a good balance of IR effect and some visible light for color. Easier to achieve sharper results. Good for a classic IR look.
* 830nm or 850nm: Produces stronger IR effects, deeper blacks, and more dramatic "wood effect" (leaves become bright white).
* 950nm: Almost pure IR. Very strong effects, very long exposures, and generally requires very bright sunlight.
* Why Choose a Dedicated Filter?
* Convenience: No external filter is needed, making shooting faster and easier.
* Predictability: You know the specific IR response you'll get.
* Cost: A full spectrum conversion with multiple filters can get expensive.
* Conversion Options:
* DIY Conversion: This is highly risky! You'll need the right tools, a clean workspace, and advanced technical skills. Lots of potential to damage the camera.
* Professional Conversion Service: This is the recommended option. Companies specialize in IR conversions and offer guarantees. Some reputable companies include:
* Life Pixel
* Kolari Vision
* Spencer's Camera & Photo
* Cost of Conversion: Expect to pay anywhere from $200 to $600 or more, depending on the camera model and conversion type.
II. Shooting Black and White IR Landscapes
* Understanding IR Light: Infrared light behaves differently than visible light. It's strongly reflected by chlorophyll in plants, making foliage appear bright white. Skies often become very dark, and water can have a unique, almost ethereal look.
* Essential Gear:
* Converted Camera: Obviously!
* Wide-Angle Lens: Ideal for landscape photography.
* Tripod: Long exposures are often required, especially with higher wavelength filters.
* Remote Shutter Release: To minimize camera shake during long exposures.
* Neutral Density (ND) Filters (For Full Spectrum Conversion): Even though you are working with IR, bright sunlight can still make achieving long exposure difficult if your camera is set to a low ISO.
* External IR Filters (For Full Spectrum Conversion): To limit visible light.
* Shooting Techniques:
* Focusing:
* Focus Shift: IR light focuses at a different point than visible light. This is CRITICAL. You'll need to compensate for this. Here's how:
* Older Lenses: Some older lenses have an IR focusing mark (a red dot or line). Focus as usual, then shift the focus ring to the IR mark.
* Live View: Use Live View and zoom in to achieve the sharpest focus. Focus peaking can be very helpful if your camera has it.
* Experimentation: You'll need to experiment with your lenses to find the correct focus point.
* Depth of Field: Use a smaller aperture (e.g., f/8, f/11, f/16) to increase depth of field and compensate for focus shift.
* Metering: Your camera's meter might be inaccurate with IR light.
* Shoot in Manual Mode (M): This is highly recommended. Use your histogram to evaluate exposure.
* Expose to the Right (ETTR): Slightly overexpose to capture more detail, but be careful not to blow out highlights. IR is very forgiving in the shadows, but blown highlights are difficult to recover.
* Chimping: Review your images on the camera's LCD and adjust exposure as needed.
* White Balance: Since you're aiming for black and white, the *actual* white balance setting doesn't matter *that* much in the field. However, setting a custom white balance can help with composition and previewing the image. Try setting a custom white balance using a green leaf as the target. This will shift colors towards blue and give you a more accurate preview of the final B&W conversion. You can also correct the white balance later in post-processing.
* Composition:
* Look for Contrasts: IR photography thrives on contrast. Look for scenes with strong light and shadow, foliage against dark skies, and interesting textures.
* Pay Attention to the Sky: The sky's behavior is different in IR. Clouds can become very dramatic, and skies can appear almost black.
* Foliage: The bright white foliage is a hallmark of IR photography. Use it to create interesting patterns and shapes in your composition.
* Long Exposures: Common, especially with higher wavelength filters. Use a tripod and remote shutter release.
* Example Settings:
* ISO: Start with a low ISO (e.g., ISO 100, 200) to minimize noise.
* Aperture: f/8 to f/16 for good depth of field.
* Shutter Speed: Adjust to achieve proper exposure based on your meter and histogram. Could be anywhere from 1/60th of a second to several seconds or even minutes.
III. Post-Processing for Black and White IR Images
* Shooting in RAW: Shoot in RAW format to preserve as much image data as possible.
* Software: Adobe Lightroom, Photoshop, Capture One, or other RAW processing software.
* Workflow:
1. White Balance Adjustment: Even though you're going to black and white, adjusting the white balance can affect the tonality of the image. Experiment to see what works best.
2. Exposure and Contrast: Fine-tune the exposure and contrast to your liking.
3. Black and White Conversion: Use your software's black and white conversion tools to create a monochrome image.
4. Channel Mixer (Very Important!): This is a powerful tool for adjusting the tones in your black and white IR images. Experiment with the red, green, and blue channels to control the brightness of foliage, skies, and other elements. The green channel usually has the most influence on foliage brightness.
5. Curves Adjustment: Use curves to fine-tune the overall tonality and contrast of the image.
6. Sharpening: Apply sharpening carefully, as IR images can sometimes appear soft.
7. Noise Reduction: If necessary, apply noise reduction, especially if you shot at a higher ISO or had a very long exposure.
8. Dodging and Burning: Use dodging and burning to selectively lighten or darken areas of the image to enhance contrast and draw attention to specific elements.
* Tips for B&W Conversion:
* Embrace the Drama: IR photography is inherently dramatic. Don't be afraid to push the contrast and create a strong, impactful image.
* Focus on Texture: The bright white foliage in IR images can create interesting textures. Emphasize these textures in your processing.
* Experiment with Toning: Try adding subtle toning (e.g., sepia, selenium) to your black and white images for a different look.
IV. Important Considerations
* Hotspots: Some lenses can produce a "hotspot" (a bright area in the center of the image) in IR photography. This is due to internal reflections within the lens. Research your lens's performance with IR before using it. Stopping down the aperture often makes hotspots more apparent.
* Light Leaks: Older camera bodies may have light leaks that become more apparent with IR photography.
* Sensor Cleaning: Keep your sensor clean, as dust spots will be very visible in IR images.
* Infrared Pollution: In urban areas, artificial light sources can emit infrared light, which can affect your images. This is less of an issue in rural landscapes.
By following these steps and experimenting with different techniques, you can create stunning black and white IR landscape photographs that capture a world unseen by the human eye.