Camera Bodies (Assume I'm shooting with two):
* Camera 1 (The Workhorse - Usually full-frame):
* Lens: 24-70mm f/2.8 (or equivalent if using a different system). This is my go-to for most of the day. It's versatile for documentary shots, portraits, and even some wider shots.
* Mode: Aperture Priority (Av). I prioritize controlling depth of field.
* ISO: Auto ISO with a maximum ISO limit (usually 3200 or 6400, depending on the camera's noise performance). I'll manually adjust this if I feel the camera is under or overexposing consistently.
* Aperture: f/2.8 - f/5.6 depending on the situation. F/2.8 for portraits with nice background blur, f/4-5.6 when I need more faces in focus during group shots or to ensure sharpness from front to back.
* White Balance: Auto White Balance (AWB) but with a slight *warm* bias if available in the camera settings. I'll adjust in post-processing as needed, but starting warm usually looks better for skin tones.
* Metering Mode: Evaluative/Matrix/Multi-segment metering (whatever your camera calls it). It's the most general-purpose and works well in most situations. I'll switch to spot metering when I need very precise exposure on a subject.
* Focus Mode: Continuous Autofocus (AI Servo/AF-C). Keeps the subject in focus even if they're moving, which is crucial for wedding photography.
* Focus Area: I like either a wide area (zone focusing) or a single focus point that I move around. Face/Eye Detection AF is amazing if your camera has it.
* Drive Mode: Continuous High (or similar). Allows me to fire off a few shots in quick succession to capture the perfect moment.
* Image Quality: RAW. Always RAW. Gives me the most flexibility in post-processing.
* Image Review: Off. Checking every shot slows me down. I'll occasionally glance at the screen to verify exposure or focus, but mostly I keep moving.
* Stabilization: On (Lens and/or Body stabilization if available).
* Camera 2 (The Specialist - Usually full-frame or crop sensor depending on needs):
* Lens: Could be one of the following, depending on the section of the wedding:
* 70-200mm f/2.8: For candids during the ceremony, reception speeches, and compressing the background in portraits.
* 35mm f/1.4 (or equivalent): For wider candids, getting closer to the action on the dance floor, and environmental portraits.
* Macro Lens (100mm or similar): For ring shots, detail shots of the dress, flowers, etc.
* Mode: Aperture Priority (Av) or Manual (M).
* If using Manual, I'm often balancing shutter speed, aperture, and ISO for a specific creative vision or to ensure consistency in challenging lighting (like dark churches).
* ISO: Auto ISO with a maximum ISO limit (same as Camera 1).
* Aperture: Varies greatly depending on the lens and desired effect. f/1.4-f/2.8 for shallow depth of field, f/4-f/8 for more in focus, Macro is usually at f/8 or higher.
* White Balance: Auto White Balance (AWB) but with a slight warm bias.
* Metering Mode: Evaluative/Matrix/Multi-segment or Spot (depending on the situation).
* Focus Mode: Continuous Autofocus (AI Servo/AF-C) or Single Autofocus (AF-S) for stationary subjects (like ring shots).
* Focus Area: Single focus point or Face/Eye Detection AF.
* Drive Mode: Continuous High (or Single for macro).
* Image Quality: RAW.
* Image Review: Off.
* Stabilization: On.
Important Considerations & Adjustments:
* Flash:
* I use off-camera flash (OCF) during the reception and sometimes for portraits, especially when the light is harsh or unflattering. My settings depend heavily on the specific flash setup and ambient lighting.
* I also carry an on-camera flash as a backup and for quick fill flash in situations where OCF isn't practical. TTL metering with slight exposure compensation is common, but I often switch to manual flash power for more control.
* Shutter Speed:
* While in Aperture Priority, I keep an eye on the shutter speed. I try to maintain a shutter speed fast enough to avoid motion blur (1/focal length is a good rule of thumb). I will increase my ISO or open my aperture to achieve this.
* In low-light situations, I might drop the shutter speed a bit and rely on image stabilization and careful technique.
* Back Button Focus: I use back-button focus on both cameras. This separates the focusing and shutter release, giving me more control. I can focus on a subject and then recompose without the camera trying to refocus.
* Custom White Balance: If shooting in a location with consistent, problematic lighting (e.g., a church with strong colored lights), I might take a custom white balance reading.
* Practice and Experience: The best way to figure out what works for you is to practice in different situations. Get familiar with your camera's settings and how they affect your images.
Before the Wedding Day:
* Clean your lenses and sensors!
* Charge all batteries and have spares.
* Format memory cards in the cameras you'll be using them in.
* Check and update camera firmware.
* Test all equipment (cameras, lenses, flashes, triggers) to make sure everything is working correctly.
* Have a backup plan for everything.
Workflow During the Wedding:
* Continuously Evaluate the Light: The lighting is constantly changing, so I'm constantly adjusting my settings.
* Shoot in Bursts: Especially during key moments like the first kiss or the first dance.
* Anticipate Moments: Be ready to capture the unexpected.
* Communicate with the Couple: Let them know what you're doing and what you need from them.
* Stay Hydrated and Take Breaks: It's a long day!
In Summary:
My goal is to be prepared for anything, while also being flexible enough to adapt to the unique circumstances of each wedding. I prioritize capturing the moment, and I rely on my understanding of my equipment and the principles of photography to achieve that. Remember, this is just a starting point – experiment, find what works best for you, and develop your own style. Good luck!