1. The Look You're After:
* Smaller Beauty Dishes (16-22 inches):
* More Specular Highlight: Creates a slightly harder light with more defined highlights. This can add definition and texture to the skin.
* Faster Falloff: Light falls off more quickly, meaning the background will be darker and the subject will be more isolated.
* More Shadows: Shadows will be more pronounced, adding drama and sculpting the face.
* Great for: Male portraits, editorial looks, more dramatic and edgy portraits, smaller spaces.
* Larger Beauty Dishes (23-32 inches or larger):
* Softer Light: Creates a softer, more even light with less harsh highlights. This is often preferred for flattering skin tones.
* Slower Falloff: Light spreads more evenly, lighting more of the scene and providing some spill onto the background.
* Softer Shadows: Shadows are less harsh and more gradual, making the light more forgiving.
* Great for: Female portraits, beauty shots, softening wrinkles, more natural-looking light, larger sets. Can be used in tighter spaces if feathered.
2. Shooting Distance and Subject Size:
* Close-Up Portraits (Head and Shoulders): A smaller beauty dish (16-22") can work well, especially if you want a more dramatic look. Larger dishes can also be effective, providing very soft light.
* Medium Shots (Waist Up): A medium-sized beauty dish (22-28") is often a good compromise. It offers a balance between softness and definition.
* Full-Length Shots: A larger beauty dish (28" or larger) is usually necessary to cover the entire subject with even light.
* Shooting Distance: The further away you are, the larger the light source needs to be to maintain its softness. If you're shooting from a greater distance, consider a larger beauty dish.
3. Studio Space:
* Small Studio: A smaller beauty dish is often more practical due to space constraints. You can always soften the light further with diffusion.
* Large Studio: You have more flexibility and can use larger beauty dishes without feeling cramped.
4. Budget:
* Larger beauty dishes generally cost more than smaller ones.
5. Personal Preference:
* Experimentation is key! Try different sizes and see what you like best.
Summary Table:
| Size (inches) | Light Quality | Falloff | Shadows | Best For | Studio Space |
|----------------|----------------------|-----------------|------------------|--------------------------------------|----------------|
| 16-22 | Harder, more specular| Faster | More pronounced | Male portraits, edgy looks, small spaces | Small |
| 23-28 | Balanced, versatile | Moderate | Moderate | Most portraits, general use | Medium |
| 28-32+ | Softer, more even | Slower | Softer, more gradual | Female portraits, full-length shots | Large |
Other Considerations:
* Type of Beauty Dish: There are different types of beauty dishes. Those with a white interior will produce a slightly softer light than those with a silver interior.
* Diffusion Sock/Scrim: You can use a diffusion sock or scrim over a beauty dish to further soften the light. This is a great way to increase the versatility of a smaller beauty dish.
* Grid: A grid can be added to a beauty dish to narrow the beam of light and reduce spill, making the light more directional and dramatic.
* Feathering: You don't always have to point the beauty dish directly at your subject. "Feathering" the light, where you position the beauty dish so that the center of the light pattern falls just to the side of your subject's face, can create a softer, more flattering look.
Recommendation:
If you're buying your first beauty dish and aren't sure what size to get, a 22-28" dish is often a good starting point. It's a versatile size that can be used for a variety of portrait styles and shooting distances. You can then add diffusion or a grid to further modify the light.