Understanding the Conversion
* The Basic Idea: Infrared photography captures light wavelengths beyond the visible spectrum (typically 700nm and up). Regular camera sensors are designed to block this IR light to produce "accurate" colors. An IR conversion removes the hot mirror (IR/UV cut filter) in front of the sensor and replaces it with a filter that blocks most or all visible light, allowing only IR light to reach the sensor.
* Why Black and White Focus? While color IR photography is possible, many photographers prefer black and white for landscape because the dramatic tones and contrast created by IR light often translate beautifully into monochrome. The stark whites of foliage against the dark skies are particularly striking in black and white.
Two Main Conversion Options
There are generally two main types of infrared conversion filters you can have installed:
* Full Spectrum Conversion (and External Filter):
* What it is: The hot mirror is removed and replaced with a clear piece of glass or a special "full spectrum" filter that transmits UV, visible, and infrared light.
* Advantages:
* Versatile: This gives you the most flexibility. You can use different screw-on filters on your lens to control the wavelength of IR light you capture.
* Allows for Visible Light Photography: Without an external filter, you can use the camera like a normal visible light camera (though color rendition might be slightly off).
* Disadvantages:
* Requires External Filters: You need to use screw-on IR filters on your lens to block visible light and capture IR images.
* More Work in the Field: Switching filters can be fiddly.
* Filter Costs: Good quality IR filters can be expensive.
* Dedicated Infrared Filter Conversion (Specific Wavelength):
* What it is: The hot mirror is removed and replaced with a filter that *only* transmits infrared light above a specific nanometer (nm) value (e.g., 720nm, 830nm, 590nm).
* Advantages:
* Simpler to Use: No need for external filters to block visible light. Point and shoot (with adjustments to white balance and exposure) once you have the settings dialed in.
* More Consistent Results: Easier to predict the outcome.
* Disadvantages:
* Less Versatile: You're locked into a specific infrared wavelength range. Changing the effect requires a different conversion.
* No Visible Light Use: You cannot use the camera for regular visible light photography.
Which Conversion is Best for Black and White Landscapes?
For predominantly black and white landscape photography, a dedicated infrared filter conversion is often preferred. Here's why:
* Simplicity: Less fiddling with filters in the field, especially when conditions are changing rapidly.
* Consistency: You'll learn the characteristics of your chosen wavelength and how it interacts with different landscapes.
* Dedicated Tool: You're creating a tool specifically for IR black and white.
Choosing the Right Infrared Wavelength (nm)
This is a crucial decision:
* 720nm: A good starting point and a very common choice. Allows a small amount of visible red light to pass through, which can give you slightly more color information (which can be useful for subtle tonal variations in your black and white conversions) and a bit less of the extreme "white foliage, dark sky" effect. It's often the most versatile of the dedicated filter conversions.
* 830nm (or higher): Blocks almost all visible light. Produces the most dramatic and contrasty black and white images with very white foliage and very dark skies. Can be less forgiving, requiring more careful exposure.
* 590nm: A good starting point if you want to retain some color information. It can produce vibrant false color images when shooting in color, but can easily be converted to black and white.
For Black and White Landscapes, 720nm or 830nm are the most popular and effective. If you're unsure, start with 720nm.
The Conversion Process
Important: This is a delicate process. Unless you have extensive experience working with electronics and camera repair, I highly recommend having a professional conversion service do it.
1. Choose a Reputable Conversion Service: Research companies that specialize in camera conversions. Read reviews and ask for examples of their work. Some popular services include:
* Kolari Vision
* LifePixel
* Spencer's Camera & Photo
2. Select Your Camera: Consider these factors:
* Dedicated Body: It's best to dedicate a camera body to IR. Trying to switch back and forth is impractical.
* Live View/EVF: A camera with a Live View LCD screen or electronic viewfinder (EVF) is essential. Looking through a regular optical viewfinder after conversion is extremely difficult or impossible because you won't be able to see the IR image.
* Sensor Resolution: Higher resolution allows for more detail in your final images.
* Sensor Size (Crop vs. Full Frame): Full frame can offer better low-light performance and a wider field of view, but crop sensor cameras are often less expensive for a dedicated IR body. IR can have some lens hotspot issues, which are usually less pronounced on crop sensor cameras.
* Used Camera: Buying a used camera specifically for conversion is often a cost-effective option.
3. Contact the Conversion Service: Discuss your specific needs (dedicated vs. full spectrum, desired wavelength, camera model) and get a quote.
4. Send in Your Camera: Carefully package and ship your camera to the conversion service.
5. The Conversion: The service will disassemble the camera, remove the hot mirror, install the appropriate filter, and reassemble the camera.
6. Testing and Calibration: After the conversion, the service should test the camera and ensure proper functionality. They may also provide guidance on white balance and exposure settings.
7. Receive Your Converted Camera: Your camera is shipped back to you, ready for infrared photography.
Camera Settings and Shooting Techniques (After Conversion)
* White Balance: This is critical for IR photography. Your camera's automatic white balance will be completely off. You need to set a custom white balance. The method varies by camera, but generally involves:
* Finding a Suitable White Balance Target: Green foliage is often a good choice. Some photographers use gray cards specifically designed for IR.
* Setting a Custom White Balance: Consult your camera's manual on how to set a custom white balance. You'll typically point the camera at your target and take a picture, then tell the camera to use that image as the white balance reference.
* Experimentation: Don't be afraid to experiment. Slight variations in white balance can dramatically change the tones in your final images.
* Metering and Exposure:
* Metering can be tricky. Your camera's meter is designed for visible light, not IR. It often underexposes IR scenes.
* Shoot in Manual Mode (M): This gives you the most control.
* Chimping (Reviewing Images): Constantly check your images on the LCD screen and adjust your settings accordingly. Pay close attention to the histogram.
* Exposure Compensation: You'll likely need to dial in positive exposure compensation (e.g., +1 to +3 stops) to get a proper exposure.
* Histograms: Use the histogram on your LCD to evaluate exposure. Ensure you're not clipping highlights or shadows excessively.
* Aperture:
* Landscape Shooting: Aim for a moderate aperture (f/8 to f/11) for good depth of field.
* Diffraction: Avoid very small apertures (f/16 or smaller) as diffraction can soften your images.
* Focusing:
* Live View/EVF Focusing: Use the Live View or EVF to focus carefully.
* Manual Focus: Manual focus is often more accurate than autofocus in IR.
* Focus Peaking: If your camera has focus peaking, use it to help you achieve sharp focus.
* Lens Choice:
* Wide-Angle Lenses: Great for capturing expansive landscapes.
* Lens Hotspots: Some lenses exhibit a "hotspot" in the center of the image when used with IR. This appears as a bright, blurry area. Test your lenses before committing to a specific setup. Websites like Kolari Vision and LifePixel have lens databases with hotspot information.
* Filters (for Full Spectrum Conversions):
* Infrared Filters (e.g., 720nm, 850nm, etc.): Screw onto your lens to block visible light and allow only IR light to pass.
* Stacking Filters: You can stack multiple filters to achieve different effects.
Post-Processing (Black and White Conversion)
* RAW Format: Always shoot in RAW format for maximum flexibility in post-processing.
* Software: Use software like Adobe Lightroom, Photoshop, Capture One, or dedicated black and white conversion tools (e.g., Silver Efex Pro).
* White Balance Adjustment: Fine-tune the white balance to achieve the desired tones.
* Exposure Adjustment: Adjust the overall exposure as needed.
* Contrast and Clarity: Increase contrast and clarity for a dramatic look.
* Tone Curve: Use the tone curve to fine-tune the highlights, shadows, and midtones.
* Black and White Conversion: Convert the image to black and white. Experiment with different color filter simulations to control the tonal relationships.
* Local Adjustments: Use brushes or gradients to selectively adjust exposure, contrast, and other settings in specific areas of the image.
* Sharpening: Sharpen the image to enhance detail.
Tips and Considerations
* Sunlight is Your Friend: Infrared light is strongest in direct sunlight. Sunny days will give you the best results.
* Midday Sun: Although typically avoided in visible light landscape photography, midday sun can be excellent for IR due to the increased infrared radiation.
* Atmospheric Conditions: Haze and fog can sometimes enhance the ethereal quality of IR images.
* Foliage: Healthy, green foliage reflects IR light strongly, resulting in bright white tones.
* Water: Water absorbs IR light, often appearing very dark or black in IR images.
* Skin Tones: In human subjects, skin can appear very smooth and pale in IR.
* Practice and Experimentation: Infrared photography takes practice. Experiment with different settings, filters, and post-processing techniques to find what works best for you.
* Dust: Keep your sensor and lenses clean. Dust spots are more noticeable in IR images.
* Lens Hood: Always use a lens hood to prevent flare.
* Tripod: A tripod is essential, especially in low light conditions.
In summary, converting a camera for infrared black and white landscape photography is a rewarding endeavor. Choose a reputable conversion service, select the appropriate wavelength filter, learn the basics of IR shooting techniques, and experiment with post-processing to create stunning and unique images.