1. Understanding the Conversion Process
* What Happens: The stock infrared (IR) cut filter in your camera is replaced with a filter that only allows infrared light to reach the sensor. This makes the sensor hyper-sensitive to IR light, allowing you to capture the unique look of infrared photography.
* Why Black and White? IR photography inherently produces unique color casts. While you *can* process IR images in color, the most common and often most striking results are in black and white. The dramatic contrast and ethereal look lend themselves well to monochrome.
2. Choosing a Camera for Conversion
* Considerations:
* Age: Older cameras (before approximately 2010) often have less effective IR-cut filters to begin with, making them easier to convert. Newer cameras tend to have stronger IR-cut filters, which can sometimes require more extensive modification.
* Sensor Size: APS-C cameras are often a good starting point due to their lower cost. Full-frame cameras can provide wider fields of view and potentially better dynamic range, but the conversion cost is higher.
* Live View: Live View is extremely helpful for focusing with an IR-converted camera, as the focal plane for IR light is slightly different than visible light.
* Compatibility: Research if your desired camera model is known to be easily converted. Some models are more challenging due to internal wiring or sensor design.
* Cost: Factor in the cost of the conversion service *plus* the cost of the camera itself.
* Dedicated Camera: It's highly recommended to use a *dedicated* camera for IR photography. Once the IR filter is removed, the camera becomes essentially useless for normal photography without external filters.
* Popular Choices:
* Older Canon EOS DSLRs (Rebel series, xxD series like 20D, 30D, 40D)
* Older Nikon DSLRs (D40, D50, D70, D80, D90)
* Mirrorless cameras, while often more expensive, can offer better live view and focus peaking which helps with IR focusing. Sony A6000 series are a common choice.
3. Conversion Options
* DIY (Not Recommended for Beginners): While possible, this is a very advanced procedure requiring specialized tools, a clean environment, and a thorough understanding of camera electronics. The risk of damaging the camera is high.
* Professional Conversion Services (Highly Recommended): Companies specialize in camera conversions. They remove the hot mirror filter and replace it with a clear or IR-pass filter. This is the safest and most reliable approach. Some reputable conversion services include:
* Lifepixel: [https://www.lifepixel.com/](https://www.lifepixel.com/)
* Kolari Vision: [https://kolarivision.com/](https://kolarivision.com/)
* Spencer's Camera & Photo: [https://spencerscamera.com/](https://spencerscamera.com/)
* Filter Selection (Critical): This determines the type of IR light your camera will capture and the final look of your images. Here's a basic overview:
* 720nm Filter: The most common starting point. Captures a strong IR effect with some visible red light still present. Provides a good balance for black and white conversion and some color experimentation.
* 830nm Filter: Strongest IR effect, almost entirely eliminates visible light. Creates very dramatic, high-contrast black and white images. Requires longer exposures.
* 590nm Filter: Captures more visible light. Produces a wider range of colors in the initial image and can be manipulated in post-processing to create false-color IR effects as well as very interesting black and white conversions.
* Full Spectrum Conversion: Replaces the IR-cut filter with a *clear* filter. This requires using external filters on your lenses to achieve IR effects (or to shoot normal visible light photography). It offers the most flexibility but requires additional filters.
4. Shooting Infrared Landscapes
* Focusing:
* Live View: Use Live View with magnified view (focus peaking if available) to fine-tune focus. IR light focuses slightly differently than visible light.
* Manual Focus: Generally necessary. Autofocus systems often struggle with IR light.
* Focus Shift: Some lenses have a focus mark for infrared on the lens barrel. If so, focus normally and then adjust the focus ring to that IR mark after you've attained proper focus using live-view.
* Exposure:
* Metering: The camera's built-in meter may struggle with IR light. Use spot metering or histogram review and adjust exposure manually to avoid overexposure.
* Aperture: Aperture affects depth of field as in normal photography. Smaller apertures (higher f-numbers) generally increase depth of field. Experiment to find the sweet spot for your lens.
* ISO: Keep ISO as low as possible to minimize noise. IR photography often requires longer exposures, so a tripod is essential.
* Shutter Speed: Expect longer exposures, especially with 720nm or 830nm filters. A sturdy tripod is crucial. Windy conditions can blur foliage.
* Composition:
* Subjects: Landscapes with foliage are ideal. Chlorophyll in leaves reflects IR light strongly, making them appear bright white ("Wood Effect"). Skies often appear very dark. Clouds stand out dramatically.
* Time of Day: Mid-day sun usually gives the strongest IR effect, as there is a maximum amount of IR light being produced.
* Consider Filters: Even with a converted camera, external filters can be useful. A polarizer can help reduce glare and darken the sky.
* File Format:
* RAW: Always shoot in RAW format. This provides the most flexibility for post-processing.
5. Post-Processing for Black and White
* Software: Adobe Lightroom, Adobe Photoshop, Capture One, or other RAW processing software.
* Workflow:
1. Import and Basic Adjustments:
* Open your RAW file.
* Adjust white balance. A good starting point is often to drag the slider towards the blue end. Play with it until the colors look unnatural, then you're in the right place. The colors don't really matter, as you're going for black and white anyway.
* Adjust exposure, contrast, highlights, shadows, whites, and blacks to get a good tonal range.
* Reduce noise if necessary (especially at higher ISOs).
2. Convert to Black and White:
* In Lightroom, use the HSL/Color panel or the B&W panel to convert the image to black and white. The specific panel you use will depend on the software you have, but they all have a similar function.
* Fine-tune the individual color sliders (red, orange, yellow, green, cyan, blue, magenta) to control how those colors are translated into shades of gray. This is key to controlling the "wood effect" and sky contrast.
* Green: Typically brightens foliage (wood effect).
* Blue: Typically darkens the sky.
* Red: Can affect skin tones (if present) and some other elements.
3. Contrast and Tonal Adjustments:
* Use curves, levels, or other tools to further refine contrast and tonal range.
* Experiment with split toning to add subtle color casts if desired, even in a black and white image.
4. Sharpening:
* Apply sharpening carefully. IR images can sometimes be softer than regular images.
* Tips for B&W Conversion:
* Embrace High Contrast: IR photography lends itself well to dramatic high-contrast looks.
* Pay Attention to the "Wood Effect": Adjust the green slider carefully to control how bright the foliage appears.
* Darken the Sky: Use the blue and purple sliders to darken the sky and emphasize clouds.
* Dodging and Burning: Use dodging and burning tools to selectively brighten or darken areas for emphasis.
6. Essential Gear (Beyond the Camera)
* Sturdy Tripod: Mandatory due to longer exposure times.
* Remote Shutter Release: Helps prevent camera shake.
* Lens Cleaning Supplies: Keep your lenses clean.
* Extra Batteries: Longer exposures drain batteries faster.
* External IR Filter (Optional but Highly Recommended for Full Spectrum Conversion): If you have a full-spectrum converted camera, you'll need external IR filters to achieve IR effects.
Important Considerations and Caveats
* Hotspots: Some lenses are prone to "hotspots" in IR photography – a bright center area. This is caused by the lens coating interacting with IR light. Research your lenses before using them with an IR-converted camera, and try to use known-good lenses. Wider focal lengths are more prone to hotspots.
* Sensor Dirt: Dust and spots on your sensor will be even more noticeable in IR images. Keep your sensor clean.
* IR Light Variation: The amount of IR light varies with the time of day, weather, and season. Experiment and learn how different conditions affect your images.
* Experimentation is Key: IR photography is a creative process. Don't be afraid to experiment with different settings, filters, and post-processing techniques to find your own style.
By following these steps, you'll be well on your way to creating stunning black and white infrared landscape photographs. Good luck!