I. Understanding the Basics
* What is Infrared Photography? IR photography captures light beyond the visible spectrum, typically between 700nm and 1000nm. Leaves, vegetation, and certain materials reflect IR light more strongly than others, leading to the signature "white foliage" look. Skies often appear dark and dramatic.
* Why Convert a Camera? While you *can* use IR filters on a standard digital camera, the in-camera hot mirror (IR cut filter) severely blocks most IR light. This results in extremely long exposures, making handheld shooting impossible and limiting the types of scenes you can capture. Converting a camera involves *removing* or *replacing* that hot mirror with a filter that allows more IR light to reach the sensor.
* Types of Conversions:
* Full Spectrum Conversion: This involves removing the hot mirror completely and replacing it with a clear glass filter. This allows you to use *any* filter (UV, IR, visible light) in front of the lens to achieve a variety of effects, including IR, UV, and even "normal" visible light photography. This is the most versatile conversion.
* Dedicated IR Conversion: The hot mirror is replaced with a filter that only passes a specific wavelength of IR light (e.g., 720nm, 830nm, 850nm). This simplifies post-processing since you're already capturing mostly IR light. The number indicates the nanometer wavelength at which the filter starts transmitting. Lower numbers (e.g., 720nm) let in more visible light, resulting in images with some color information. Higher numbers (e.g., 850nm) are purer IR and result in more monochromatic images.
* Camera Compatibility: Not all cameras are suitable for conversion. Older DSLRs and mirrorless cameras are often preferred because they are more easily disassembled. Cameras with image stabilization systems or complex sensor coatings can be more difficult and risky to convert. Research your specific camera model before proceeding.
II. Key Considerations Before Conversion
* Choosing a Camera:
* Sensor Size: APS-C or full-frame sensors are both suitable. Full-frame sensors generally offer better low-light performance and wider dynamic range.
* Live View/LCD: A Live View mode is highly recommended for focusing. IR light focuses differently than visible light, so you'll need to use Live View or focus peaking to achieve sharp images.
* Availability of Used Cameras: Consider buying a used camera specifically for conversion. This avoids modifying your primary camera and allows you to keep shooting visible light while working on IR.
* Camera brand: Nikon and Canon cameras have been found to be easier to convert.
* Megapixel count: For landscape photography, higher megapixel count will allow you to print larger photos.
* Choosing a Conversion Service or DIY:
* Professional Conversion:
* Pros: Guaranteed results, less risk of damaging the camera, often includes sensor cleaning and calibration.
* Cons: More expensive than DIY.
* DIY Conversion:
* Pros: Less expensive, educational experience.
* Cons: High risk of damaging the camera, requires specialized tools and skills, voiding the camera warranty.
* Deciding on a Conversion Type:
* Full Spectrum: Most versatile but requires more filters and post-processing for pure IR images.
* Dedicated IR (720nm, 830nm, 850nm): Simpler post-processing for IR, less versatile overall. Consider your preferred aesthetic: 720nm for more color information, 850nm for pure black and white.
III. Finding a Professional Conversion Service
* Research: Search online for reputable IR conversion services. Look for reviews, before-and-after examples, and warranty information. Popular options include:
* LifePixel
* Kolari Vision
* Spencer's Camera & Photo
* Contact the Service: Discuss your camera model, desired conversion type, and any specific concerns.
* Shipping: Carefully package your camera for shipping, insuring it for its replacement value.
IV. DIY Conversion (Proceed with Extreme Caution!)
* Disclaimer: *Attempting a DIY conversion carries a significant risk of permanently damaging your camera. If you are not comfortable with delicate electronics repair, it is strongly recommended to use a professional service.*
* Tools and Materials:
* Small Phillips head screwdrivers (various sizes)
* Plastic spudger or opening tools
* Tweezers
* Compressed air
* Static wrist strap
* Clean workspace
* Dust-free environment (or a makeshift clean box)
* Double-sided tape
* Replacement filter (clear glass for full spectrum, IR filter for dedicated IR)
* Magnifying glass
* Camera service manual (if available)
* Good lighting
* Small containers to organize screws
* Isopropyl Alcohol and Lint free cloths
* Steps (General Outline - Specific steps will vary depending on your camera model):
1. Preparation: Work in a clean, well-lit, dust-free environment. Wear a static wrist strap to prevent electrostatic discharge.
2. Disassembly: Carefully disassemble the camera, following a guide specific to your model (search online for "\[camera model] IR conversion tutorial"). Take pictures at each step to help with reassembly. Be extremely careful with ribbon cables and connectors.
3. Locate the Hot Mirror: The hot mirror is usually located directly in front of the sensor. It is often a thin piece of glass with a reddish or purplish tint.
4. Remove the Hot Mirror: Carefully remove the hot mirror. Some are glued in place and may require gentle heat (e.g., from a hairdryer) to loosen.
5. Install the Replacement Filter: Clean the sensor and the replacement filter thoroughly. Attach the replacement filter securely in place using double-sided tape (or as instructed in your specific guide).
6. Reassembly: Carefully reassemble the camera, referring to your disassembly photos. Ensure all screws are tightened properly and all ribbon cables are securely connected.
7. Testing: Test the camera functionality after reassembly. Check autofocus, image quality, and exposure.
V. Post-Conversion Steps and Considerations
* Focus Adjustment: IR light focuses differently than visible light. You may need to adjust your lens's focus or use Live View with focus peaking to achieve sharp images. Some older lenses have an "IR" focus mark which you can use to fine tune the focus.
* White Balance: The default white balance setting will likely produce strange colors. Set a custom white balance by photographing a neutral surface (e.g., green grass) in the desired lighting conditions. Some cameras may allow you to set a white balance using the custom RGB values that match your filter.
* Hot Spots: Some lenses exhibit "hot spots" in IR photography - a bright area in the center of the image. This is caused by internal reflections within the lens. Test your lenses to see if they exhibit this issue and avoid using those lenses for IR photography. Consider lens coatings.
* Post-Processing:
* Black and White Conversion: Convert the images to black and white in your preferred photo editing software (e.g., Adobe Photoshop, Lightroom, Capture One).
* Channel Mixer: Experiment with the channel mixer to fine-tune the tonal range and create specific effects. Swapping the red and blue channels is a common technique to enhance foliage contrast.
* Contrast and Tone Adjustments: Adjust contrast, brightness, and shadows to create a dramatic and visually appealing image.
* Dodging and Burning: Use dodging and burning techniques to selectively lighten or darken areas of the image.
* Sharpening: Sharpen the image to enhance details.
VI. Tips for Shooting Infrared Landscapes
* Light: Shoot in bright sunlight for the strongest IR effect. Overcast days may not produce the desired results. Midday light works best but can be harsh, so use filters to compensate for that.
* Composition: Look for scenes with strong contrast and interesting textures. Foliage, clouds, and water reflections are all excellent subjects for IR photography.
* Aperture: Use a mid-range aperture (e.g., f/8 to f/11) for good depth of field and sharpness.
* ISO: Keep the ISO as low as possible to minimize noise.
* Filters: Use IR filters on your lenses (if using a full spectrum converted camera) to control the wavelength of IR light captured. You can also use ND filters to allow for longer exposures if desired.
* Experiment: Don't be afraid to experiment with different settings and techniques to discover your own unique style.
In summary: Converting a camera to infrared unlocks a new world of photographic possibilities. Whether you choose to have it professionally converted or attempt a DIY conversion (with extreme caution!), the results can be stunning and rewarding. Remember to research thoroughly, understand the risks involved, and take your time to learn the nuances of IR photography.