1. Understanding Infrared Photography
* IR Light: Infrared light is beyond the visible spectrum. It's reflected differently by various materials, especially vegetation, giving you that "white foliage" effect.
* Dedicated IR Camera vs. IR Filter: While you can use an IR filter on a regular camera, it requires very long exposures (minutes) and a tripod. Converting a camera removes the "hot mirror" filter, which blocks IR light, making the sensor much more sensitive and allowing for handheld or reasonable shutter speeds.
* IR Conversion Types:
* Full Spectrum: The most versatile. It removes the IR cut filter entirely, allowing the sensor to capture UV, visible light, and IR. You'll need filters to control the wavelengths you're capturing. Good for experimenting.
* Standard IR (720nm or 830nm): Removes the IR cut filter and replaces it with a specific IR pass filter. 720nm produces a more "visible light" feel with a hint of IR, while 830nm is almost purely IR.
* Super Color IR: Similar to full spectrum, but allows some visible light through along with IR. This can lead to interesting color results when processed.
2. The Conversion Process (Generally handled by a Professional)
Disclaimer: This process is delicate and risky. If you're not comfortable with intricate electronics work, *strongly* consider sending your camera to a reputable conversion service. Opening your camera will void its warranty.
* Finding a Conversion Service:
* Research thoroughly! Read reviews and compare prices. Look for companies specializing in camera conversions.
* Consider the type of conversion you want (full spectrum, 720nm, 830nm, etc.)
* Ask about their process, turnaround time, and warranty.
* Popular options include:
* LifePixel (https://www.lifepixel.com/)
* Kolari Vision (https://kolarivision.com/)
* Spencer's Camera & Photo (https://spencerscamera.com/)
* The General Conversion Steps (If you're *extremely* adventurous and experienced):
1. Disassemble the Camera: This involves removing the outer casing, circuit boards, and ribbon cables. Take detailed notes and pictures!
2. Locate the Hot Mirror Filter: This filter is usually glued directly to the sensor.
3. Carefully Remove the Hot Mirror: This is the trickiest part. Heat can sometimes help loosen the adhesive, but too much heat can damage the sensor. Be extremely gentle.
4. (For Standard IR Conversion) Install the IR Pass Filter: A specific wavelength IR pass filter is glued in place of the hot mirror.
5. Reassemble the Camera: Reverse the disassembly process, ensuring all connections are secure.
6. Sensor Calibration (Optional but Recommended): Many services calibrate the sensor after conversion to correct for any minor shifts in focus or alignment.
3. Camera Selection
* Older DSLRs/Mirrorless Cameras: Often, older models that are no longer your primary camera are excellent candidates for conversion. The cost of conversion can sometimes exceed the value of the camera.
* Megapixels: Megapixels aren't *as* critical for IR as they are for regular photography, as IR detail is generally less fine. 12MP or higher is usually sufficient.
* Live View: Live view is *extremely* helpful for focusing in IR.
* Mirrorless vs. DSLR: Both work. Mirrorless cameras typically have a slight edge due to their electronic viewfinder (EVF) showing the IR image in real-time.
4. Focusing in Infrared
* Infrared Focus Mark: Many older lenses have an "IR focus mark" (usually a red line or dot) that indicates the focus shift when shooting IR. Focus normally, then adjust to this mark.
* Live View: With live view, you can often focus by zooming in on the screen and adjusting manually until the image is sharp. This is generally more accurate than relying on the IR focus mark.
* Focus Peaking (Mirrorless): Focus peaking in your camera's menu (if available) can also help you achieve sharp focus.
* Experimentation: Focus can be slightly "soft" in IR. Experiment to find the best focusing technique for your particular camera and lens.
5. Lenses
* Lens Hotspots: Some lenses exhibit a "hotspot" in IR photography – a bright, central area of uneven exposure. Test your lenses before committing to a conversion.
* Wide-Angle Lenses: Often produce dramatic results in IR landscape photography.
* Prime Lenses: Generally sharper than zoom lenses.
* Lens Compatibility: Research which lenses work well with IR photography, avoiding those known for hotspots.
6. Shooting in Infrared
* White Balance:
* Custom White Balance: The best method. Set your white balance on something highly reflective of IR light, like green foliage under direct sunlight. This gives you a more accurate starting point for post-processing. Take a photo of the foliage, then set your custom white balance to that photo within your camera's menu.
* Predefined White Balance: If a custom white balance is not working, try the "cloudy" or "shade" white balance setting as a starting point.
* Metering: Your camera's meter may struggle with IR light. Experiment with exposure compensation (+1 to +2 stops is often needed) to avoid underexposure.
* Aperture: Use a narrower aperture (f/8 to f/16) for greater depth of field, as focus can be tricky.
* ISO: Keep ISO as low as possible to minimize noise.
* RAW Format: Shoot in RAW format for maximum flexibility in post-processing.
7. Post-Processing
* Color Channels: IR images often have a strong red tint. Post-processing involves manipulating color channels (typically red and blue) to achieve a more neutral or desired look.
* Channel Mixer: A powerful tool in Photoshop for swapping color channels. This can dramatically change the look of your image.
* Black and White Conversion: Convert the image to black and white using your preferred method (e.g., Lightroom, Photoshop, Silver Efex Pro).
* Contrast and Clarity: Increase contrast and clarity to enhance the details in the image.
* Dodging and Burning: Use dodging and burning techniques to selectively lighten or darken areas of the image, creating depth and drama.
* Noise Reduction: Apply noise reduction if necessary, especially if you shot at higher ISOs.
Benefits of IR Conversion for Black and White Landscapes
* Dramatic Skies: Infrared light renders skies darker and more dramatic.
* White Foliage: Healthy green foliage appears bright white, creating a surreal, ethereal look.
* Unique Perspective: IR photography offers a unique perspective on the world, revealing details and textures that are invisible to the naked eye.
* Creative Control: You have a wide range of creative control in post-processing, allowing you to achieve a variety of different looks.
In summary, converting a camera for infrared photography is a significant investment but offers incredible creative possibilities for black and white landscape photography. Research thoroughly, choose a reputable conversion service (or proceed with caution if you're technically skilled), and be prepared to experiment with focusing, exposure, and post-processing.