Why Convert a Camera for IR?
* Stronger Infrared Effect: While you can use IR filters on a standard camera, conversion removes the internal IR-blocking filter, making the camera *much* more sensitive to IR light. This results in brighter IR images, shorter exposure times, and the ability to use weaker (and sometimes cheaper) IR filters.
* Cleaner Images: Standard cameras with IR filters struggle with long exposures, resulting in hot pixels and noise. Dedicated IR cameras are much cleaner at longer exposures.
* Predictable Results: With a full-spectrum conversion, you can use a variety of IR filters to target specific wavelengths and achieve different looks.
* Creative Control: IR photography allows you to capture landscapes in a unique way, with ethereal skies, glowing foliage, and dramatic contrast.
The Conversion Process (General Overview)
Disclaimer: Converting a camera yourself is *highly* risky and will almost certainly void your warranty. It requires delicate work and a clean environment to avoid damaging the sensor. It is strongly recommended to have a professional service perform the conversion.
If you choose to do it yourself, proceed at your own risk. You have been warned!
Here are the general steps involved:
1. Choose a Camera:
* DSLR or Mirrorless: Both can be converted, but DSLRs are often preferred for their readily available parts and larger sensor sizes.
* Older Models: It's generally best to use an older, less valuable camera for conversion. This reduces the financial risk if something goes wrong.
* Live View is Highly Recommended: Live view makes focusing in IR much easier.
2. Gather Supplies:
* Precision Screwdriver Set: Needed for disassembling the camera. Use the correct size to avoid stripping screws.
* Non-Static Wrist Strap and Mat: Protect sensitive electronics from static electricity.
* Dust-Free Environment: A clean room or dedicated workspace is essential. Consider a makeshift glove box.
* Compressed Air (for electronics): For blowing away dust.
* Magnifying Glass or Microscope: For examining small parts.
* Replacement Filter (IR or Full Spectrum): The core of the conversion. See below for types.
* Tools for Handling Delicate Parts: Plastic tweezers or similar tools to avoid scratching the sensor.
* Service Manual (Highly Recommended): A detailed service manual for your specific camera model is invaluable. You can often find these online or purchase them.
* Reference Photos/Videos: Take lots of photos and videos during disassembly to help with reassembly.
* Isopropyl Alcohol and Lint-Free Cloths: For cleaning.
3. Choose an IR Conversion Type:
* Full Spectrum Conversion: This replaces the hot mirror with clear glass. The camera is now sensitive to UV, Visible, and IR light. You *must* use external filters to achieve IR effects. This is the most versatile option because it allows you to experiment with different IR wavelengths and even UV photography. Full-spectrum converted cameras can also be used for normal photography by attaching a hot mirror filter.
* Specific Wavelength Conversion: This replaces the hot mirror with a filter that blocks all visible light below a certain wavelength (e.g., 720nm, 830nm, or 850nm). This is the most common approach for black and white landscape IR. These are often described as "720nm conversion" etc. The higher the number, the less visible light gets through.
* 720nm: A good balance between strong IR effect and some color information. Can be converted to black and white but also can produce interesting false-color images.
* 830nm: Almost pure infrared. Produces very stark black and white images with strong contrast.
* 850nm: The darkest IR. Very few visible light wavelengths. Creates dramatic effects.
* UV/IR Cut Filter Conversion: This replaces the hot mirror with a UV/IR Cut filter. This blocks ultraviolet and infrared radiation. This is used in scientific/medical fields but not for landscape photos.
4. Disassembly:
* Follow the Service Manual: This is *crucial*.
* Work Methodically: Keep track of every screw and part. Use labeled containers.
* Disconnect Cables Carefully: Ribbon cables are fragile.
* Locate the Hot Mirror/IR Cut Filter: It's usually located directly in front of the sensor.
5. Filter Replacement:
* Remove the Hot Mirror/IR Cut Filter: Carefully detach it.
* Clean the Sensor: Remove any dust or debris.
* Install the Replacement Filter: Align it properly and secure it.
6. Reassembly:
* Reverse the Disassembly Steps: Refer to your photos and notes.
* Be Patient: Don't force anything.
* Check All Connections: Make sure all cables are securely attached.
7. Testing and Calibration:
* Test the Camera: Turn it on and take some test shots.
* Check for Focus Issues: IR light focuses differently than visible light. You may need to adjust the autofocus or use manual focus with live view. Some converted cameras benefit from focus adjustments; some conversion services offer to adjust the focus for you.
* White Balance: You'll need to set a custom white balance in-camera. Often, pointing the camera at green foliage in the sun will work.
Shooting IR Landscapes After Conversion:
* Filters (Optional): While not always necessary with specific wavelength conversions, you can use additional filters to fine-tune the IR effect.
* White Balance: As mentioned, set a custom white balance.
* Manual Focus (Often Necessary): Infrared light focuses slightly differently than visible light, so autofocus may not be accurate. Use live view and zoom in to ensure sharp focus.
* Aperture: Experiment with different apertures. Stopping down (higher f-number) can increase sharpness.
* Exposure: IR images can be quite bright, so adjust your exposure accordingly. Use the histogram to avoid blown-out highlights.
* Post-Processing:
* Black and White Conversion: Use your preferred photo editing software (Photoshop, Lightroom, Capture One).
* Channel Mixer: Experiment with channel mixing to control the tones in your black and white images.
* Contrast and Clarity: Adjust contrast and clarity to enhance the details and drama.
* Dodging and Burning: Use dodging and burning to selectively lighten and darken areas of the image.
Alternatives to DIY Conversion:
* Professional Conversion Services: This is the safest and most reliable option. Companies like Kolari Vision, LifePixel, and Spencer's Camera & Photo offer professional conversion services. They have the expertise, tools, and clean environments to do the job properly. They also offer warranty services.
* Buy a Pre-Converted Camera: You can purchase cameras that have already been converted for IR photography. This is a convenient but potentially more expensive option.
* IR Filters on a Normal Camera: You can attach IR filters to a normal camera, but you will need very long exposure times.
Important Considerations:
* Warranty Void: Converting your camera will void its warranty.
* Dust: Dust is the enemy! Even a tiny speck of dust on the sensor can ruin your images.
* Focus Shift: IR light focuses differently than visible light, so you may experience a focus shift. Some conversion services will adjust the focus for you.
* Complexity: This is a complex project. Be honest about your technical skills and risk tolerance.
In conclusion, converting a camera for infrared photography is a challenging but rewarding project. If you're not comfortable with the risks involved, consider using a professional conversion service or buying a pre-converted camera. The unique and beautiful images you can create with infrared photography are well worth the effort!