1. Understanding Infrared Photography
* The Infrared Spectrum: IR light is just beyond the visible red light in the electromagnetic spectrum. Cameras normally have IR-blocking filters to produce natural-looking colors. Removing or replacing this filter allows the camera to capture IR light.
* Why Black and White? While you *can* get false-color IR images, black and white conversions are the most common and often the most visually striking. The contrast and tones in IR images lend themselves beautifully to monochrome.
* The "Wood Effect": The most characteristic trait of IR photography is the "Wood Effect" – the ethereal, glowing appearance of foliage. This is because chlorophyll in healthy plants strongly reflects IR light.
* Skies: Skies often appear very dark and dramatic in IR, providing a striking contrast to the glowing vegetation.
* Water: Water usually appears very dark, almost black.
2. Choosing a Camera for Conversion
* Used DSLRs or Mirrorless Cameras are Best: Converting a camera is usually irreversible, so it's best to use a used camera body that you don't rely on for everyday photography. Older DSLRs are often the most cost-effective option.
* Sensor Size: APS-C or full-frame sensors work well. Full-frame sensors tend to have slightly better low-light performance and shallower depth of field possibilities.
* Live View is Highly Recommended: After conversion, you'll need live view to compose and focus. The viewfinder will be largely useless. Make sure the camera has reliable live view with the ability to zoom for accurate focusing.
* Avoid Cameras with Special Sensor Coatings: Some cameras have specialized coatings on the sensor that can interfere with IR transmission, so do some research on the camera model you are considering.
* Popular Choices: Older Canon DSLRs (e.g., Canon EOS 20D, 30D, 40D, 50D, 60D, or Rebel series) are often used due to their availability and relatively low cost. Sony Alpha mirrorless cameras (e.g., A6000 series, A7 series) are also popular. Nikon DSLRs can be used as well, but the IR conversion may be slightly more complex with some models.
* Consider Mirrorless vs DSLR:
* Mirrorless: Benefit from focus peaking, better live view options, often smaller and lighter.
* DSLR: Generally cheaper to buy an old model, but bulkier.
3. Understanding Conversion Options
* Full Spectrum Conversion: The original IR-blocking filter is completely removed and replaced with a clear glass filter. This allows *all* light (visible and IR) to reach the sensor. You then use external IR filters on your lenses to block visible light and let only specific IR wavelengths through.
* Pros: Most versatile; allows you to experiment with different IR wavelengths and even shoot in normal visible light with a regular hot mirror filter.
* Cons: Requires purchasing and using external filters for IR photography.
* Dedicated IR Filter Conversion: The original IR-blocking filter is replaced with a specific IR filter. This means the camera *only* captures light at the specified IR wavelength. You don't need to use external filters. The most common wavelengths are 720nm, 830nm, and 590nm.
* 720nm: A good "middle ground" filter, offering a strong IR effect but also letting some visible light through, resulting in slightly more natural colors.
* 830nm: Provides a very strong IR effect, resulting in very dark skies and bright foliage. Less color information gets through the filter.
* 590nm: A Super-Color Infrared filter, this allows more visible light and creates surreal colors. Typically a very heavy post processing requirement.
* Pros: Simpler to use; no need to constantly switch filters.
* Cons: Less versatile; you're locked into a specific IR wavelength.
For Black and White Landscape Photography, a dedicated 720nm or 830nm filter conversion is often the best choice.
4. The Conversion Process
WARNING: Converting a camera requires delicate handling and a clean environment. If you are not comfortable working with electronics, it is HIGHLY recommended to have a professional perform the conversion.
* Professional Conversion: This is the safest and most reliable option. Companies specializing in camera conversions (e.g., Kolari Vision, Life Pixel) will disassemble your camera, remove the original filter, install the desired IR filter, and recalibrate the autofocus. This costs several hundred dollars.
* DIY Conversion: If you are technically inclined and have experience working with electronics, you can attempt the conversion yourself. There are many tutorials online (YouTube is your friend), but proceed with extreme caution.
* Tools and Materials: You'll need small screwdrivers, spudgers, tweezers, compressed air, microfiber cloths, gloves, static-dissipating wrist strap, replacement filter (IR or clear), double sided tape and a clean, well-lit workspace.
* Steps:
1. Disassembly: Carefully disassemble the camera, following a tutorial specific to your camera model. Pay close attention to the order of components and screws.
2. Filter Removal: Locate the original IR-blocking filter (usually located directly in front of the sensor). Carefully remove it.
3. Filter Installation: Install the replacement IR or clear glass filter. Ensure it's clean and properly aligned.
4. Reassembly: Reassemble the camera, carefully reversing the disassembly process.
5. Sensor Cleaning: Thoroughly clean the sensor before final reassembly.
6. Autofocus Calibration (If Necessary): After conversion, the autofocus may be off. Some cameras allow you to adjust the autofocus settings or perform a micro-adjustment to compensate. This is less of an issue with mirrorless cameras that use on-sensor autofocus.
5. Post-Conversion Settings and Techniques
* White Balance: After conversion, you'll need to set a custom white balance.
* Full Spectrum: Aim the camera at a green leafy surface under sunlight and set your custom white balance using that green foliage.
* Dedicated IR Filter: The best object for white balance depends on the filter. Grass or foliage under sunlight generally work well. Experiment and see what gives you the most neutral starting point for your black and white conversion.
* Shooting Mode: Shoot in RAW format. This gives you the most flexibility in post-processing.
* Aperture: Experiment with aperture. A smaller aperture (higher f-number) will increase depth of field, but may also introduce diffraction.
* ISO: Start with a low ISO (e.g., ISO 100 or 200) to minimize noise. You may need to increase the ISO in low light.
* Focusing: Use live view and zoom in to ensure sharp focus. Autofocus may be unreliable with IR light.
* Metering: The camera's light meter may not be accurate with IR light. Experiment with exposure compensation (+1 to +2 stops is often needed) and check the histogram to ensure you are not clipping highlights or shadows.
* Composition: Think about the dramatic skies, glowing foliage, and contrast in your compositions.
6. Post-Processing
* Software: Adobe Lightroom, Photoshop, Capture One, or similar image editing software.
* White Balance Adjustment: Fine-tune the white balance to remove any unwanted color casts.
* Black and White Conversion: Use the black and white mixer in your software to control the tones of different colors. Typically, you'll darken blues (for the sky) and brighten reds, yellows, and greens (for foliage).
* Contrast and Tone Adjustments: Adjust the contrast, highlights, shadows, and whites to create the desired mood.
* Clarity and Texture: Increase clarity and texture to enhance details.
* Sharpening: Apply sharpening to bring out fine details.
* Graduated Filters: Use graduated filters to darken the sky further and add drama.
* Dodging and Burning: Use dodging and burning to selectively lighten or darken areas of the image.
7. Essential Gear
* Converted Camera
* Lenses: Consider lenses known for sharpness.
* Tripod: Crucial for sharp images, especially in low light.
* Remote Shutter Release: Minimizes camera shake.
* Lens Cleaning Supplies: Keep your lenses clean.
* Spare Batteries: IR photography can be power-intensive.
* Memory Cards: Plenty of storage for RAW files.
Tips for Success
* Practice: Experiment with different settings, compositions, and post-processing techniques to find your own style.
* Time of Day: Shoot during the golden hours (early morning and late afternoon) for the best light. Midday sun can be too harsh.
* Weather: A few clouds can add drama to the sky.
* Subject Matter: Look for scenes with strong contrast and interesting textures. Water, trees, and stone architecture are all great subjects.
* Research: Study the work of other IR photographers to get inspiration.
Converting a camera for IR photography can be a rewarding experience. With practice and experimentation, you can create stunning black and white landscapes that capture the world in a unique and captivating way. Good luck!