* Your desired look: Softer light vs. more contrast
* Shooting distance: Close-up vs. full body
* Studio space: How much room you have to maneuver
* Subject: Are you shooting individuals or groups?
* Power of your strobe: Larger dishes require more power.
Here's a breakdown to help you choose:
Smaller Beauty Dishes (16"-22"):
* Characteristics:
* Produce a more focused, contrasty light. Highlights are brighter and shadows are more defined.
* Smaller highlights in the eyes.
* More forgiving of slight movements in the subject, as the sweet spot is smaller.
* More portable.
* Best For:
* Close-up portraits (headshots, beauty shots) where you want to emphasize texture and detail.
* Creating a more dramatic or edgy look.
* Smaller studio spaces.
* Traveling/location shoots.
* When you want a more sculpted look.
* Subjects with naturally smooth skin (as they can accentuate imperfections more).
* Combining with grids for even more focused light.
* Considerations:
* Can be harsher on skin, emphasizing wrinkles or blemishes. May need to use more makeup or retouching.
* Falloff is faster, meaning light drops off more quickly as you move further from the center.
Medium Beauty Dishes (23"-28"):
* Characteristics:
* A good balance between soft and hard light. Versatile.
* Larger, more pleasing highlights in the eyes.
* Softer shadows compared to smaller dishes.
* Best For:
* Most portrait types - headshots, waist-up, and even some full-body shots.
* A general, all-purpose option if you only want to buy one beauty dish.
* A good starting point for beginners.
* Provides a good compromise between a controlled and flattering light.
* Considerations:
* Doesn't offer the extreme control of a smaller dish or the super-soft light of a larger one.
Larger Beauty Dishes (29"-40"+):
* Characteristics:
* Produce a softer, more even light. Approaches the quality of a large softbox but still retains some directional quality.
* Very flattering on skin, minimizing imperfections.
* Creates larger, diffused highlights in the eyes.
* Requires more power from your strobe (important!).
* Best For:
* Full-body portraits.
* Group portraits.
* Commercial work where you want a polished, clean look.
* Subjects with less-than-perfect skin.
* When you want a softer, more forgiving light.
* Fashion photography.
* Considerations:
* Requires more space in your studio.
* Less portable.
* You'll need a powerful strobe to get enough light output, especially at longer distances.
* Can flatten features if not used carefully with proper positioning.
Other Important Considerations:
* Color: White beauty dishes generally produce softer light than silver beauty dishes. Silver dishes are more specular and offer a bit more contrast. Gold dishes warm the skin tones.
* Grids: Grids can be used with any size beauty dish to control light spill and further focus the light beam. This is especially useful with larger beauty dishes to prevent light from bouncing around the room.
* Sock Diffusers: Adding a diffuser sock over a beauty dish softens the light even further, creating a more gentle and flattering effect. You can buy these or use DIY methods.
* Distance: The closer the beauty dish is to your subject, the softer the light will be. Moving it further away will make the light more contrasty. Experiment to find what works best for your style.
* Your Budget: Beauty dishes vary in price depending on size, brand, and materials. Consider what you can afford and what features are most important to you.
Recommendation for Beginners:
If you're just starting out and can only buy one beauty dish, a 22-28" white or silver beauty dish is a good choice. It's versatile enough for most portrait situations, and you can always add a grid or diffuser sock later if you want more control or softer light.
In summary: There's no single "right" size. Consider the type of portraits you shoot most often, the look you're trying to achieve, and the resources (space, power, budget) you have available. Don't be afraid to experiment and see what works best for your style!