1. Understanding the Concept:
The core principle is directional, hard lighting. You need a light source strong enough to create a distinct line of demarcation between the illuminated and shadowed sides of the face. This usually means a small, focused light source without diffusion on one side and blocking all other light sources from reaching the shadowed side.
2. Equipment You'll Need:
* A Light Source:
* Speedlight (Flash): A speedlight with a bare bulb or with a grid attached is ideal. Grids focus the light even more and prevent spill.
* Studio Strobe: A studio strobe offers more power and consistency, but requires power outlets.
* Strong LED Light: An LED light panel (especially a smaller one) can work, but may need to be very close to the subject.
* Light Modifier (Optional but Recommended):
* Grid: Most effective for controlled, directional light. Attaches to your flash head. Consider different grid angles (10, 20, 30 degrees) for varying light spread.
* Snoot: A snoot further restricts and concentrates the light, creating a very narrow beam.
* Light Stand (if using an off-camera flash): To position your light effectively.
* Reflector (Optional): A small reflector can be used *very* subtly on the shadow side to add just a touch of fill light, but be cautious not to kill the dramatic contrast. Avoid using a reflector initially.
* Black V-Flat or Black Foam Core (Essential): This is *crucial* to block ambient light from hitting the shadow side of the face. Large foam core boards from an art supply store work well.
* Camera: A DSLR or mirrorless camera with manual mode is best.
* Lens: A portrait lens (35mm, 50mm, 85mm) or zoom lens covering those focal lengths will be suitable.
3. Setting Up the Shot:
* The Environment: Choose a room where you can control the light. Darkening the room as much as possible is important. Turn off overhead lights and close blinds.
* Subject Placement: Position your subject facing perpendicular to the camera. This makes it easier to create the clean separation between light and shadow.
* Black V-Flat or Foam Core Placement: Place the black V-flat (or foam core) *very* close to the shadowed side of your subject's face. The goal is to completely block any ambient light or bounce light from reaching that side. The closer it is, the sharper the line between light and shadow. Experiment with angling the V-flat slightly to see how it affects the shadow.
* Light Placement: Position your light source on the other side of the subject's face (opposite the black V-flat).
* Height: Start with the light slightly above eye level, angled downwards. Adjust based on the shadows on your subject's face.
* Distance: The closer the light source, the softer the shadow edge. The further away, the harder and more defined the edge. Start with the light fairly close and adjust.
* Angle: Adjust the angle of the light to control how much of the face is illuminated. You want a clear line separating light and shadow.
4. Camera Settings:
* Shoot in Manual Mode (M): This gives you full control over exposure.
* ISO: Set your ISO as low as possible (ISO 100 or 200) to minimize noise.
* Aperture: Choose an aperture that suits your desired depth of field. f/2.8 to f/5.6 is a good starting point for portrait work to blur the background.
* Shutter Speed: Your shutter speed needs to be at or below your flash sync speed (typically 1/200th or 1/250th of a second). This is important when using strobes.
* Flash Power (if using a flash): Start with a low power setting (e.g., 1/32 or 1/64) and gradually increase it until you get the desired brightness on the illuminated side of the face. Take test shots frequently.
* White Balance: Set your white balance appropriately for your light source (e.g., "Flash" for speedlights, or custom white balance). You can also adjust it in post-processing.
5. Shooting and Refining:
* Take Test Shots: Take plenty of test shots and examine the histogram on your camera's LCD screen. Make sure you're not clipping the highlights or shadows excessively. Adjust your flash power or camera settings accordingly.
* Adjust Light Position: Fine-tune the position of your light source and the black V-flat until you achieve the desired "day versus night" effect. Pay attention to the sharpness and position of the line separating light and shadow.
* Subject Posing: Experiment with different poses and expressions. Subtle changes in head position can significantly affect the way the light falls on the face.
* Focus: Ensure your focus is sharp on the subject's eyes.
6. Post-Processing (Optional):
* RAW Processing: Shooting in RAW format gives you the most flexibility in post-processing.
* Exposure Adjustments: Fine-tune the overall exposure if needed.
* Contrast: You may want to increase contrast slightly to enhance the dramatic effect.
* Shadow and Highlight Adjustments: Adjust shadows and highlights to refine the details in both the illuminated and shadowed areas. Be careful not to lift the shadows *too* much, or you'll lose the "night" effect.
* Color Grading: You can experiment with color grading to create a specific mood or style. Consider slightly warmer tones on the "day" side and cooler tones on the "night" side.
* Sharpening: Apply a subtle amount of sharpening to bring out details.
Tips and Considerations:
* Clarity is Key: The sharpness of the line between light and shadow is crucial. A well-placed black V-flat and a gridded light source are your best friends here.
* Subtlety vs. Drama: You can choose to make the effect very stark and dramatic, or more subtle. Experiment with light placement and fill light (if any) to achieve your desired look.
* Experiment with Light Modifiers: Try different grids, snoots, and reflectors to see how they affect the light.
* Subject's Expression: Encourage your subject to have an expression that complements the dramatic lighting. A slightly melancholic or contemplative expression can work well.
* Background: A dark or neutral background will help to emphasize the subject and the dramatic lighting.
By following these steps and experimenting with different techniques, you can create stunning "day versus night" portrait effects that capture the beauty of light and shadow. Good luck!