1. Understanding Infrared Photography & Camera Conversion:
* Infrared Light: Infrared light is invisible to the human eye, lying just beyond the red end of the visible spectrum. Different materials reflect and absorb IR light differently than visible light, leading to unique effects. Vegetation, in particular, becomes highly reflective, appearing white or glowing.
* Camera's Hot Mirror (IR-Cut) Filter: Standard cameras have a "hot mirror" filter placed in front of the sensor. This filter blocks infrared light and UV light, preventing color casts and other unwanted artifacts in regular photos.
* IR Conversion: Converting a camera involves removing the hot mirror and replacing it with an IR-pass filter. This allows IR light to reach the sensor. The type of IR filter determines which wavelengths are passed, influencing the final image.
* Full Spectrum Conversion: Some conversions remove the hot mirror but don't add a replacement filter. This is called full spectrum conversion. This opens up the camera for UV, visible, and IR photography but requires external filters for each type.
2. Conversion Options (DIY vs. Professional):
* Professional Conversion Services: This is generally the recommended route, especially for your first conversion or if you're not comfortable with delicate electronics. Specialized companies have the expertise and equipment to perform the conversion cleanly and accurately. Benefits:
* High success rate.
* Guaranteed quality.
* Potential for sensor cleaning and calibration.
* Options for different IR filter wavelengths.
* Warranty on the work.
* Examples of Companies: Kolari Vision, Life Pixel, Spencer's Camera and Photo.
* Cost: Varies depending on the camera model and filter type, but generally ranges from $200-$600.
* DIY Conversion: This is a more advanced option for those with experience in electronics repair and a steady hand. It's significantly cheaper but also carries a higher risk of damaging the camera. Considerations:
* Requires specialized tools (small screwdrivers, anti-static wrist strap, etc.).
* Requires finding the correct IR-pass filter (available online).
* Requires a clean, dust-free environment.
* Voids the camera's warranty.
* Risk: You can brick your camera.
* Resources: Search online for tutorials specific to your camera model.
3. Choosing the Right IR Filter (Important for Black and White):
* Filter Wavelength: The wavelength of the IR filter (measured in nanometers - nm) determines which portion of the infrared spectrum it passes. Common choices for black and white landscape are:
* 720nm: A good starting point. Allows a small amount of visible red light, resulting in more subtle IR effects and slightly more color information (which can still be converted to black and white). Good for a classic IR look.
* 830nm: Blocks almost all visible light, resulting in a stronger, more dramatic IR effect. Vegetation appears very white, and skies become very dark. Less forgiving, requiring careful exposure.
* 665nm: This is a less common choice but can give you a more dramatic look than a 720nm, while still allowing some visible light to pass through.
* Other Wavelengths: There are options like 590nm, and these give you a more color look, but they can be used with a black and white filter in post processing.
* Considerations:
* Stronger IR Effect: Higher wavelengths (like 830nm) produce more dramatic results but require more exposure compensation and can be more challenging to work with.
* Visible Light Leakage: Lower wavelengths (like 720nm) allow a small amount of visible light, which can result in slight color tints in the image. You can eliminate these color tints in post-processing.
* Personal Preference: Experimenting with different filters is the best way to find the look you prefer.
4. Camera Selection:
* Older Digital Cameras: Older cameras with lower megapixel counts can be good candidates for conversion, as they may be less valuable and you won't feel as bad if something goes wrong.
* Mirrorless Cameras: Often a good choice due to their ease of focusing and ability to use adapted lenses.
* DSLRs: Can be used, but Live View is essential for focusing, as the viewfinder will not show the IR image.
* Important: Research your specific camera model. Some cameras are more difficult to convert than others.
* Dedicated Camera: It's generally best to dedicate a camera *solely* to infrared photography after conversion. Switching back to normal photography is difficult (requires external filters).
5. Post-Processing for Black and White:
* RAW Format: Shoot in RAW format for maximum flexibility in post-processing.
* White Balance: Adjust the white balance to neutralize any color casts. You'll likely need to experiment to find a setting that works well. Try Custom or Grey Point.
* Black and White Conversion: Use a black and white conversion tool in your photo editing software (Photoshop, Lightroom, Capture One, etc.) to fine-tune the tonal range.
* Contrast and Clarity: Increase contrast and clarity to enhance the dramatic look of the IR image.
* Curves Adjustment: Use curves adjustments to control the overall tonal range and bring out details in highlights and shadows.
* Dodging and Burning: Use dodging and burning tools to selectively lighten or darken areas of the image, emphasizing specific features.
* Sharpness: Apply moderate sharpening to enhance detail.
* Channel Mixer: This can be a handy tool for manipulating colors before converting to black and white. Experiment with swapping the Red and Blue channels for different effects.
6. Essential Gear and Techniques for IR Photography:
* External IR Filters (Optional but Recommended): Even with a converted camera, external IR filters can fine-tune the IR effect. Useful for experimenting and achieving different looks.
* Tripod: Essential for sharp images, especially in low light. IR photography often requires longer exposures.
* Remote Shutter Release: Minimizes camera shake during long exposures.
* Manual Focus: Autofocus may not work reliably with IR light. Use Live View and manual focus for precise focus. Focus slightly *closer* than you think you need to. Infrared light focuses slightly differently than visible light.
* Exposure Compensation: You will almost always need to use exposure compensation, as the camera's meter will be fooled by the abundance of IR light. Start with +1 to +3 stops and adjust as needed. Use your histogram to ensure you're not clipping highlights or shadows.
* Sunlight: Infrared photography works best in bright sunlight. Clouds can significantly reduce the IR effect.
* Composition: Pay attention to composition, as with any type of photography. Look for strong lines, shapes, and textures.
* Experimentation: Experiment with different settings, filters, and post-processing techniques to discover your own unique style.
In summary, converting a camera for infrared black and white landscape photography is a rewarding but technically demanding process. Starting with a professional conversion is the safest bet, and careful post-processing is essential to achieving the desired look. Remember to experiment and enjoy the unique possibilities that infrared photography offers.