Understanding Infrared Photography and Conversion
* Infrared Light: Infrared light is invisible to the human eye, residing beyond the red end of the visible spectrum. Different materials reflect and absorb IR light differently than visible light, leading to unique tonality in IR photographs. Vegetation, for instance, often appears bright white ("Wood Effect") due to its high infrared reflectance. Skies are often dark and dramatic.
* Camera Sensors and Filters: Digital camera sensors are sensitive to IR light, but a "hot mirror" filter blocks it to produce accurate color images. IR conversion involves removing this filter and replacing it with one that either passes only IR light or allows a wider spectrum (including some visible light).
* Conversion Options:
* Full Spectrum Conversion: The hot mirror is removed, and a clear filter is installed. This allows the camera to capture UV, visible, and IR light. Requires external IR filters on the lens to isolate the desired IR wavelengths. Offers the most flexibility, as you can use different filters for different effects.
* Dedicated IR Conversion (Most Common): The hot mirror is replaced with an IR-passing filter directly on the sensor. This filter blocks most visible light, resulting in primarily infrared images. Different filter wavelengths are available (e.g., 720nm, 830nm, 590nm), with lower numbers allowing more visible light in. *Most people choose this method for convenience.*
The Conversion Process (Generally Performed by a Professional):
Important: *This is a delicate process and can easily damage your camera. It is HIGHLY recommended to have a professional do this.*
1. Camera Selection:
* Older DSLRs/Mirrorless: Generally, older cameras with more basic sensors (without excessive processing) often produce better IR results. Look for cameras known to have good IR performance.
* Sensor Quality: The cleaner the sensor and the less internal filtering, the better.
* Live View/EVF: Very helpful for focusing because infrared has a different focal plane than visible light.
2. Disassembly:
* Carefully disassemble the camera, following a specific repair manual for the model. This often involves removing the back panel, circuit boards, and the sensor assembly. *Requires expertise and proper tools.*
3. Hot Mirror Removal:
* The hot mirror filter is located in front of the sensor. It's typically glued in place and needs to be carefully removed without damaging the sensor. Heat guns or specialized tools are often used.
4. Filter Installation (The Key Step):
* For Full Spectrum: A clear glass filter is installed in place of the hot mirror. Ensure it's perfectly clean and seated securely.
* For Dedicated IR: The chosen IR filter (e.g., 720nm) is installed. Again, cleanliness and secure seating are vital.
5. Reassembly:
* Carefully reassemble the camera, ensuring all connections are properly made.
6. Calibration (Optional, But Recommended):
* After conversion, the camera might need slight autofocus and metering adjustments due to the altered light spectrum. This may involve micro-adjustments through the camera's menu (if available) or custom firmware adjustments.
Choosing an IR Conversion Wavelength (Filter):
* 720nm: A popular choice. Allows a small amount of visible red light to pass through, resulting in images with a bit more color information, easier focusing, and a good balance between IR effect and usability. Good for starting out.
* 830nm: Blocks almost all visible light, producing very strong IR effects, dramatic skies, and a purer monochrome look. Focusing can be more difficult.
* 590nm (Super Color IR): Lets a wider range of visible light through. Requires more post-processing to achieve a "false color" look or convert to B&W. More specialized and less common for classic B&W landscape IR.
Shooting with a Converted Infrared Camera:
* Focusing:
* Manual Focus: IR light has a slightly different focal plane than visible light. Live View focusing or electronic viewfinders (EVFs) are immensely helpful.
* Focus Shift: Some lenses have an IR focus mark (usually a red dot) that indicates where to set the focus ring for optimal IR sharpness after focusing in visible light.
* White Balance:
* Custom White Balance: Essential for achieving the desired tonality. Aim at green foliage or grass under direct sunlight to set a custom white balance. This can dramatically alter the colors before converting to B&W.
* If shooting raw, setting white balance in post is also an option.
* Exposure:
* Metering: IR light behaves differently, so your camera's meter might not be accurate. Experiment and bracket your shots.
* Histogram: Rely on the histogram to ensure proper exposure, especially avoiding blown-out highlights. Slight underexposure is often better than overexposure.
* Lenses:
* Hot Spots: Some lenses exhibit "hot spots" (a bright area in the center of the image) when used with IR light. Research your lenses to see if they're known to have this problem. Wide-angle lenses are often more prone to hot spots.
* Lens Coatings: Older lenses with fewer coatings are sometimes preferred, as modern coatings can block IR light.
* Filters (For Full Spectrum):
* If you have a full-spectrum conversion, you *need* IR filters on your lenses to capture IR. Experiment with different wavelengths.
Post-Processing (Very Important):
* Raw Conversion: Shoot in raw format to retain the maximum amount of information for post-processing.
* White Balance Adjustment: Fine-tune the white balance to achieve the desired color or starting point for B&W conversion.
* Channel Mixer (Photoshop/Similar): A crucial tool for B&W conversion. Adjusting the red, green, and blue channels allows you to control the tonality of different elements in the image (e.g., making foliage brighter, skies darker).
* Levels and Curves: Adjust contrast and tonality to enhance the dramatic IR effect.
* Dodging and Burning: Selective adjustments to lighten or darken specific areas.
* Sharpening: Apply sharpening carefully to bring out details.
Tips for Black and White Infrared Landscape Photography:
* Subject Choice:
* Vegetation: Exploit the "Wood Effect" to create bright, ethereal foliage.
* Skies: Look for dramatic cloud formations, as IR light often renders skies very dark.
* Water: Water often appears very dark or even black in IR photography, creating interesting contrasts.
* Architecture: Can provide interesting textural contrasts with vegetation.
* Lighting:
* Direct Sunlight: Strong sunlight maximizes the IR effect.
* Golden Hour: The warm light of golden hour can create beautiful tones in IR images, especially with a full-spectrum conversion and appropriate filters.
* Composition: Pay careful attention to composition, using leading lines, rule of thirds, and other techniques to create visually appealing images.
Finding a Conversion Service:
* Research: Search online for reputable camera conversion services specializing in infrared conversion.
* Reviews: Read reviews and testimonials from other photographers.
* Experience: Choose a service with a proven track record of successful conversions.
* Warranty: Inquire about warranties and guarantees.
* Price: Conversion costs vary, so get quotes from several services.
Is it Worth Converting a Camera?
* Cost: Conversions can be expensive (several hundred dollars or more).
* Permanence: The conversion is permanent; you won't be able to use the camera for normal color photography anymore unless you have a full-spectrum conversion and use external filters.
* Alternatives: Consider using an IR filter on a regular camera *before* committing to a conversion. While not the same, it can give you a taste of IR photography.
In summary, converting a camera for infrared photography is a specialized and delicate process. While it can provide stunning and unique results, it requires careful planning, research, and often the expertise of a professional. Consider your budget, commitment level, and desired workflow before making the leap.