Here's a breakdown of the process and considerations:
1. Understanding the Options:
* Full Spectrum Conversion: This involves removing the hot mirror completely. You then use screw-on filters on your lens to block visible light and allow specific IR wavelengths to pass through. This offers the most versatility, as you can experiment with different IR filters for various effects. It's often the choice for serious IR photographers.
* Dedicated IR Conversion: A specific IR-pass filter is installed in place of the hot mirror. You choose a specific IR wavelength cutoff (e.g., 720nm, 830nm). This simplifies the process and often gives you more predictable results, but limits your creative options. 720nm is a popular choice as it allows some visible light to pass through, resulting in more color information and interesting post-processing possibilities. 830nm is more purely infrared.
* Dual Spectrum Conversion: This involves installing a filter that allows you to switch between standard color photography and infrared photography via a switch or dial. It's a complex modification that typically requires specialized expertise.
2. Deciding on a Camera:
* DSLR vs. Mirrorless: Both can be converted. DSLRs are often preferred for their optical viewfinders, which allow you to see the world, albeit dimly and possibly with color shifts, before you take a picture. Mirrorless cameras require you to use the electronic viewfinder or LCD screen, which can be difficult to see with heavy IR filters due to their blocking of visible light. Focus peaking is extremely helpful with mirrorless cameras after IR conversion.
* Sensor Size: Sensor size doesn't impact the conversion process itself. The larger the sensor, the shallower the depth of field at equivalent apertures, which can be more challenging for focusing in IR.
* Age: Older cameras are often easier to convert because they have simpler electronics and fewer fragile components.
* Avoid Live View (for DSLRs): The heat from the sensor running constantly in Live View can affect the IR filter over time, potentially causing image quality issues.
* Dedicated Body: It's generally recommended to dedicate a single camera body to infrared photography. This avoids the hassle of constantly switching filters and reduces the risk of accidentally shooting regular photos with an IR filter.
3. DIY Conversion (Not Recommended for Beginners):
* Research Thoroughly: Find detailed tutorials and guides specific to your camera model. iFixit.com is a good resource.
* Tools Required:
* Precision screwdrivers (various sizes)
* Spudger or plastic opening tool
* Anti-static wrist strap
* Clean, well-lit workspace
* Magnifying glass or microscope (optional, but helpful)
* IR-pass filter (the type you chose - 720nm, 830nm, etc.)
* Double-sided tape or appropriate adhesive for the filter
* Lint-free cloths
* Compressed air
* Steps (General Outline):
1. Disassembly: Carefully disassemble the camera, following the specific guide. This often involves removing the bottom plate, back cover, and other internal components to access the sensor assembly.
2. Sensor Access: Locate the sensor assembly. This is the most delicate part of the process.
3. Hot Mirror Removal: Carefully remove the hot mirror (IR cut filter). This is often glued in place and requires gentle prying.
4. Filter Installation: Clean the sensor surface thoroughly with a lint-free cloth and compressed air. Install the IR-pass filter in place of the hot mirror using double-sided tape or appropriate adhesive. Ensure the filter is perfectly aligned.
5. Reassembly: Carefully reassemble the camera, following the disassembly steps in reverse.
6. Testing: Test the camera thoroughly to ensure everything is working correctly.
4. Professional Conversion:
* Benefits:
* Higher quality results
* Lower risk of damage to the camera
* Warranty (usually) on the conversion
* Expert calibration for optimal performance
* Reputable Conversion Services:
* LifePixel
* Kolari Vision
* MaxMax IR
* Process:
1. Contact the converter: Discuss your needs and desired IR wavelength.
2. Send in your camera: Pack it securely and ship it to the converter.
3. Conversion: The converter performs the modification and calibrates the camera.
4. Return: Your converted camera is shipped back to you.
5. Photography with an IR-Converted Camera:
* Focusing: Infrared light focuses at a slightly different point than visible light.
* Live View (Mirrorless): Use focus peaking and manual focus in live view.
* DSLR: Often, focusing through the viewfinder is difficult due to the dim image. You may need to use Live View or adjust the focus manually. Some lenses have an IR focus mark that you can align with the focus distance. Experiment and take test shots.
* White Balance: The camera will likely produce images with a strong color cast (often red). Set a custom white balance in camera, aiming for a neutral gray. You can do this by pointing the camera at foliage, or a white/grey card in the scene under the same lighting conditions. White balance can also be adjusted in post-processing.
* Exposure: IR photography often requires longer exposures than regular photography. Use a tripod for sharp images. Experiment with different aperture settings.
* Subject Matter: Landscapes with foliage are ideal for IR photography. Foliage reflects a lot of infrared light, making it appear bright white in the final image. Clouds also respond well to IR.
* Post-Processing:
* Black and White Conversion: Convert the image to black and white using your preferred software (Photoshop, Lightroom, Capture One, etc.). Experiment with different black and white conversion techniques.
* Contrast and Tone Adjustments: Adjust the contrast and tone to create a dramatic and visually appealing image.
* Dodging and Burning: Use dodging and burning to selectively lighten and darken areas of the image.
* Channel Mixer (Advanced): Experiment with the channel mixer in Photoshop to fine-tune the tones and colors in the image. This is especially useful for creating unique infrared effects.
* Sharpness: Sharpen the image carefully to enhance details.
Tips for Black and White IR Landscape Photography:
* Shoot in RAW: RAW files contain more information than JPEGs, giving you greater flexibility in post-processing.
* Composition: Pay attention to composition, just as you would with regular photography. Use leading lines, the rule of thirds, and other compositional techniques.
* Weather: Overcast days can be excellent for IR photography, as they provide even lighting and reduce harsh shadows.
* Experiment: Don't be afraid to experiment with different settings and techniques.
Key Considerations Before Converting:
* Cost: Professional conversion can be expensive (several hundred dollars). DIY conversion is cheaper, but carries the risk of damaging your camera.
* Risk: DIY conversion is risky. You could damage your camera beyond repair.
* Warranty: Converting your camera will void its warranty.
* Time Investment: DIY conversion takes time and patience.
* Learning Curve: There's a learning curve to IR photography. Be prepared to experiment and learn new techniques.
In summary, converting a camera for infrared black and white landscape photography can be a rewarding experience, allowing you to capture unique and evocative images. Choose the conversion method that best suits your skills, budget, and willingness to take risks. Remember to research thoroughly, take your time, and experiment with different techniques.