Understanding the Basics
* Infrared Light: Infrared light exists on the electromagnetic spectrum beyond the visible range. It's invisible to the naked eye but can be captured by specially modified cameras.
* IR's Effect on Landscape: In IR photography, chlorophyll in plants reflects infrared light strongly, making foliage appear bright white (almost glowing). Blue skies often turn dark, creating dramatic contrast. Clouds stand out starkly against this darkened sky.
* Black and White Dominance: While color IR photography is possible, black and white is the more traditional and widely appreciated aesthetic for IR landscapes. This is because the false colors often look unnatural, and the power of IR lies in its dramatic tonal range in monochrome.
Methods of Conversion
There are two primary approaches to converting a camera for IR:
1. Full Spectrum Conversion (Removing the Hot Mirror):
* What it is: The camera's hot mirror is completely removed, allowing *all* light (UV, visible, and IR) to reach the sensor.
* Pros:
* Most versatile. You can use filters to block different portions of the spectrum, allowing for:
* Standard IR: Use an IR filter (720nm, 850nm, etc.) on the lens to block visible light and capture only IR.
* UV Photography: Use a UV filter to block visible and IR light.
* Normal Visible Light Photography: Use a UV/IR cut filter to restore the camera to its normal operation.
* Usually the least expensive conversion.
* Cons:
* Requires external filters to control the light spectrum.
* Image quality can be slightly impacted if the original hot mirror was part of the lens correction stack. (This is less common on mirrorless cameras designed with lens correction in mind.)
* Autofocus and metering can be unreliable in visible light without a UV/IR cut filter.
2. Dedicated IR Conversion (Replacing the Hot Mirror with an IR Pass Filter):
* What it is: The original hot mirror is replaced with a filter that transmits only infrared light above a specific wavelength (e.g., 720nm, 850nm, 590nm).
* Pros:
* Camera is immediately ready for IR photography. No additional lens filters are always necessary (unless you want a different IR effect).
* Autofocus and metering are often more reliable in IR than with a full spectrum conversion *when shooting IR*.
* Cons:
* Less versatile. You're limited to the specific IR wavelength range of the filter installed. You *cannot* take normal visible light photos with this conversion.
* Reverting the camera to normal visible light photography is impossible without a professional re-conversion.
Wavelength Considerations (for Dedicated IR Conversion):
The choice of IR wavelength for a dedicated conversion is crucial. Here's a general guide:
* 720nm: A very popular choice. Provides a good balance between the strong IR effect (white foliage, dark skies) and some visible light, resulting in a more realistic, though still ethereal, look. The colors are still present, so a B&W conversion is usually done in post-processing.
* 850nm: Blocks more visible light, resulting in a stronger IR effect with stark whites and very dark skies. Less "realistic" than 720nm but often favored for its dramatic look. Almost exclusively shot in B&W.
* 590nm: Sometimes called a "super color" or "goldie" conversion. Passes a wider spectrum of light, including some visible light, resulting in surreal colors if shot in color, but can still produce very dramatic B&W photos. Requires the most post-processing effort.
Choosing a Camera
* Sensor Size: APS-C sensors offer a good balance of price, performance, and lens availability for landscape photography. Full-frame sensors provide even better image quality and dynamic range, but come at a higher cost.
* Mirrorless vs. DSLR: Mirrorless cameras are generally favored for IR conversions. They have shorter flange focal distances (distance from the lens mount to the sensor), which can reduce IR hotspots (a bright spot in the center of the image). DSLRs *can* be converted, but hotspotting is more of a potential issue and might require more careful lens selection.
* Live View: Essential. IR light is invisible to the naked eye, so you'll need Live View (or the EVF on mirrorless) to compose and focus.
* Megapixels: A decent megapixel count (12MP+) is fine for most landscape work. More megapixels provide greater detail and cropping flexibility.
* Dedicated Camera: It's best to dedicate a specific camera body to IR photography. Trying to use a single camera for both normal and IR photography is impractical.
* Used Cameras: Converting a used camera is a cost-effective way to get started. Look for models in good condition, even if they are a few years old. Canon, Nikon, and Sony mirrorless cameras are all popular choices.
The Conversion Process
* DIY (Not Recommended Unless You're Experienced): Opening up a digital camera and working with delicate components is risky. Dust is a major enemy, and the process requires specialized tools and a clean environment. If you make a mistake, you could brick your camera.
* Professional Conversion Services: This is the recommended approach. Many companies specialize in camera conversions. They have the expertise and equipment to perform the conversion safely and reliably. Some popular companies include:
* LifePixel
* Kolari Vision
* MaxMax
These companies will typically offer both full-spectrum and dedicated IR conversions, allowing you to choose the best option for your needs.
Required Equipment
* Converted Camera: The heart of the system.
* Lenses: Not all lenses perform equally well in IR. Some lenses produce hotspots (a bright area in the center of the image), while others exhibit distortion or vignetting. Research the lenses you plan to use to avoid these issues. Older manual focus lenses are often preferred, as they don't have the complex coatings of modern lenses that can block IR light.
* Tripod: Essential for sharp images, especially in low light situations.
* Remote Shutter Release (or Intervalometer): Reduces camera shake when taking long exposures.
* IR Filters (for Full Spectrum Conversion): Essential for controlling the infrared spectrum. Available in various wavelengths (720nm, 850nm, etc.).
* UV/IR Cut Filter (for Full Spectrum Conversion if using in visible light): Needed if you want to use a full-spectrum converted camera as a regular camera.
* Neutral Density (ND) Filters: Useful for reducing the amount of light entering the lens, allowing for longer exposures in bright conditions. Especially helpful when using slower shutter speeds needed for IR.
* Lens Cleaning Supplies: Important for keeping your lenses and sensor clean.
Shooting Techniques
* Focusing: Autofocus can be unreliable in IR. Use Live View with manual focus and zoom in to ensure critical sharpness. Hyperfocal distance focusing is a useful technique for landscapes.
* Metering: The camera's meter may not accurately measure IR light. Experiment with different exposure settings and use the histogram to ensure proper exposure. Overexposing slightly is often better than underexposing.
* Aperture: Use a mid-range aperture (f/8 - f/11) for optimal sharpness and depth of field.
* White Balance: Set a custom white balance using a neutral gray card or a scene with good IR reflection (e.g., foliage). This helps to achieve more consistent colors (when applicable, and for ease of post-processing). In black and white photography, setting the white balance is less crucial, as you'll be converting to monochrome in post.
* Compose Carefully: IR photography exaggerates contrast and textures. Pay close attention to composition and look for elements that will stand out in infrared light, such as foliage, clouds, and water.
* Shoot in RAW: RAW files provide the most flexibility for post-processing.
* Avoid Hotspots: Experiment with different lenses and angles to minimize or eliminate hotspots. If hotspots persist, they can sometimes be corrected in post-processing.
* Time of Day: Similar to regular landscape photography, golden hour (the hours around sunrise and sunset) often provide the best light.
Post-Processing
Post-processing is essential for creating stunning black and white IR landscapes. Here are some key steps:
* Import and Adjust Exposure: Import your RAW files into your editing software (e.g., Adobe Lightroom, Capture One, DxO PhotoLab). Adjust the exposure, contrast, highlights, shadows, whites, and blacks to optimize the tonal range.
* White Balance Adjustment: If necessary adjust the white balance to remove unwanted color casts.
* Convert to Black and White: Use a black and white conversion tool to remove the color information. Experiment with different conversion profiles or channels to achieve the desired tonal effect.
* Contrast Enhancement: Increase the contrast to emphasize the dramatic effect of infrared light. Use curves or levels adjustments to fine-tune the tonal range.
* Dodge and Burn: Use dodge and burn techniques to selectively brighten or darken areas of the image. This can help to enhance details, create depth, and guide the viewer's eye.
* Sharpening: Sharpen the image to bring out fine details and textures. Use a sharpening tool with careful control over the radius and amount to avoid introducing artifacts.
* Noise Reduction: If necessary, apply noise reduction to reduce any unwanted noise in the image.
* Hotspot Correction (if needed): In Photoshop, use the healing brush, clone stamp, or content-aware fill tools to remove or reduce hotspots. A gradient filter can also be helpful.
* Final Touches: Make any final adjustments to the image to achieve your desired look. This might include adjusting the clarity, vibrance, or saturation.
Important Considerations
* Hotspots: As mentioned, these are a common issue with IR photography, especially with older lenses. Testing your lenses with your converted camera is crucial.
* Lens Coatings: Modern lens coatings can block infrared light, leading to reduced IR transmission.
* Dust: Keep your camera and lenses clean to avoid dust spots on your images. Sensor cleaning is essential.
* Experimentation: IR photography is all about experimentation. Don't be afraid to try different techniques and settings to find what works best for you.
By following these steps, you can successfully convert a camera for infrared photography and capture breathtaking black and white landscape images that reveal a hidden world. Good luck!