Part 1: Converting Your Camera to Infrared
Disclaimer: Converting a camera to IR involves disassembling it and is inherently risky. You can damage your camera if you are not careful or experienced. Consider sending it to a professional conversion service if you're not comfortable with electronics repair.
1. Choosing a Camera:
* Mirrorless or DSLR: Both can be converted. Mirrorless cameras often offer better focusing performance with adapted lenses, which might be useful since you'll be focusing manually more often in IR.
* Sensor Size: Crop sensors (APS-C) can work well, but full-frame sensors generally offer better image quality and dynamic range.
* Camera Age: Older cameras are often cheaper to experiment with. A used DSLR or mirrorless camera makes a good first conversion project.
* Live View: A must-have feature, as it makes focusing in IR much easier.
2. Understanding IR Filters:
* Full Spectrum (Clear Filter): Replaces the hot mirror with clear glass. This allows all light (including visible light) to reach the sensor. You then use external IR filters on your lens. This offers the most flexibility but requires more post-processing.
* Specific Wavelength Filter (e.g., 720nm, 830nm, 665nm): Replaces the hot mirror with an IR filter that blocks visible light below a certain wavelength. A 720nm filter is a common starting point. Lower wavelengths (like 665nm) allow for more color information, resulting in less stark black and white images. Higher wavelengths (like 830nm) provide a very strong IR effect.
3. Conversion Process (General Steps - Highly Camera Specific):
* Research: Find detailed step-by-step guides specific to your camera model. iFixit and YouTube are excellent resources. Do not attempt this without a specific guide for your camera.
* Tools: You'll need:
* Small Phillips head screwdrivers (various sizes)
* Plastic spudger or pry tool (to avoid scratching)
* Tweezers
* Compressed air
* Static wrist strap (essential to prevent damage to the sensor)
* Clean, well-lit workspace
* Magnifying glass or jeweler's loupe
* Kapton tape (heat-resistant tape)
* Double-sided tape (for securing the new filter)
* Replacement IR filter (from a reputable supplier)
* Steps (General Outline):
1. Disassemble the camera: Carefully remove the back panel, then the circuit boards and shielding to access the sensor. Document each step with photos or video.
2. Remove the hot mirror filter: This filter is usually glued to the sensor. Gently pry it off with a plastic spudger. Be extremely careful not to scratch the sensor.
3. Clean the sensor: Use compressed air to remove any dust or debris. You can also use sensor cleaning swabs if necessary.
4. Install the IR filter: Attach the new IR filter using double-sided tape. Ensure it's perfectly aligned.
5. Reassemble the camera: Carefully put everything back together in reverse order.
* Important Considerations:
* Static electricity: This is the biggest danger. Always wear a static wrist strap.
* Dust: Keep your workspace clean and use compressed air frequently. Dust on the sensor will show up in your images.
* Sensor alignment: Make sure the sensor is properly aligned during reassembly. Misalignment can cause blurry images.
4. Alternatives to DIY Conversion:
* Professional Conversion Services: Companies like Kolari Vision, LifePixel, and Spencer's Camera & Photo offer professional IR conversion services. This is the safest and often the best option.
* Used Converted Cameras: You can sometimes find used cameras that have already been converted to IR on eBay or other online marketplaces.
Part 2: Shooting Black and White Infrared Landscapes
1. Camera Settings:
* White Balance: You'll need to set a custom white balance. Point the camera at green foliage (grass or leaves) under the same lighting conditions you'll be shooting in, and use the camera's custom white balance function. This will give you a starting point for your white balance but you'll still likely need to adjust it in post.
* Shooting Mode: Aperture Priority (Av or A) is a good starting point. You can also use Manual (M) mode for more control.
* Aperture: Experiment with different apertures. F/8 to f/11 is often a good range for landscape photography to maximize depth of field.
* ISO: Keep the ISO as low as possible (typically ISO 100 or 200) to minimize noise.
* Shutter Speed: IR photography often requires longer shutter speeds because the IR light is weaker. Use a tripod to avoid camera shake.
* Focus: Autofocus may not work reliably in IR. Use Live View and manual focus, focusing on the brightest area of the scene. Focus peaking (if your camera has it) is very helpful. Be aware that the infrared focal plane is slightly different than the visible light focal plane so you may need to make fine adjustments.
2. Composition:
* Look for Foliage: Healthy green foliage reflects IR light strongly, creating bright, ethereal whites in your black and white images. This is the key element in most IR landscapes.
* Clouds: Clouds can look dramatic and add texture to the sky.
* Water: Water absorbs IR light, appearing very dark or even black.
* Architecture: Stone and concrete can reflect IR light, providing contrast to the surrounding foliage.
* Sun Angle: Mid-morning and late afternoon light often produce the best results.
3. Equipment:
* Tripod: Essential for longer exposures.
* Remote Shutter Release: Prevents camera shake when triggering the shutter.
* Lens Hood: Reduces flare.
* Lenses: Wide-angle lenses are excellent for landscapes. Be aware that some lenses have "hot spots" (a circular area of uneven illumination) in IR photography. Research your lenses to see if they are known to have issues. Prime lenses (fixed focal length) often perform better than zoom lenses.
* External IR Filters (for Full Spectrum Conversions): These screw onto the front of your lens. Experiment with different wavelengths (e.g., 720nm, 830nm) to achieve different effects.
4. Post-Processing:
* Shooting in RAW: Shoot in RAW format to retain the most information for post-processing.
* White Balance Adjustment: Fine-tune the white balance to achieve the desired look. Often, a slightly blue or purple tint is removed in post-processing.
* Channel Mixer: This is a powerful tool in Photoshop or other editing software. Experiment with swapping the red and blue channels to create unique IR effects. This is often necessary for full-spectrum converted cameras.
* Contrast and Brightness: Adjust contrast and brightness to enhance the tonal range.
* Dodging and Burning: Use dodging and burning to selectively lighten or darken areas of the image.
* Sharpening: Apply sharpening to bring out detail.
* Noise Reduction: Apply noise reduction if necessary, especially if you shot at higher ISOs.
* Converting to Black and White: If desired, convert the image to black and white.
* Color Toning (optional): Subtle color toning (e.g., sepia, selenium) can add a unique look to your IR images.
Tips for Success:
* Practice: Infrared photography takes practice. Don't be discouraged if your first few images aren't perfect.
* Experiment: Try different settings, filters, and post-processing techniques to find what works best for you.
* Research: Read articles and watch tutorials on IR photography to learn from others.
* Check the Weather: Clear, sunny days with puffy clouds are ideal for IR photography.
* Keep your sensor clean: Dust is more visible in IR images.
* Be patient: Focusing in IR can be tricky. Take your time and use Live View and manual focus.
* Have fun! Infrared photography is a unique and rewarding art form. Enjoy the process of creating otherworldly landscapes.
By carefully following these steps and experimenting with different techniques, you can capture stunning black and white infrared landscapes with your converted camera. Good luck!