1. Camera Conversion Options:
* Full Spectrum Conversion: This removes the IR blocking filter but replaces it with a clear filter. This allows the sensor to capture visible light, infrared, and ultraviolet light. You'll then use filters to block visible light and isolate the IR spectrum. This is the most versatile conversion, but requires strong IR filters.
* Dedicated IR Conversion (720nm, 830nm, 850nm, etc.): This replaces the IR blocking filter with a dedicated IR pass filter. This allows *only* infrared light of a specific wavelength (e.g., 720nm) to reach the sensor. The higher the nanometer value, the deeper into the infrared spectrum you're capturing.
* 720nm: Captures the most visible light along with IR, resulting in a more subtle IR effect and can still produce some color shifts (typically magenta skies). Easiest to edit in black and white.
* 830nm/850nm: Captures very little visible light. This produces strong IR effects (e.g., very bright foliage, dark skies) and usually renders a near-monochrome image. Demands longer exposures.
Choosing a Conversion:
* Black and White Landscape Preference: If you're primarily interested in stark black and white landscapes, an 830nm or 850nm dedicated IR conversion is often preferred. It provides the strongest, most dramatic IR effect with less post-processing work.
* Flexibility: If you want to experiment with color IR or want more control over the IR effect, a full-spectrum conversion is the better option. However, you'll need a variety of IR filters.
Finding a Conversion Service:
* Professional Conversion Services: Research reputable conversion companies (e.g., Kolari Vision, Life Pixel, Spencer's Camera & Photo). They have the expertise and equipment to perform the conversion cleanly and safely. Check reviews and ask about warranties.
* DIY (Not Recommended for Beginners): While DIY conversions are possible, they are risky and can damage your camera if you're not extremely careful and technically skilled. You'll need specialized tools and a clean environment.
2. Camera Choice:
* Older DSLRs/Mirrorless Cameras: Older cameras are often the best choice for conversion. You can pick up a used camera specifically for IR and not worry about potentially damaging your primary camera.
* Sensor Size: APS-C or Full Frame: Sensor size impacts the field of view and depth of field, but the choice largely depends on your preference and budget.
* Live View: Live View is *essential* for focusing after conversion. Infrared light focuses at a different point than visible light.
* Mirrorless is Easier: Many find mirrorless cameras easier for IR because you can often see the effect in the viewfinder/LCD in real time.
3. Lenses:
* "Hot Spots": Some lenses create a "hot spot" (a brighter area in the center of the image) when used with IR. This is due to the lens coatings interacting with infrared light.
* Research Compatibility: Before using a lens, research its IR compatibility. Forums and online resources often list known lenses that are prone to hot spots.
* Manual Lenses: Manual lenses often perform better as they tend to have fewer coatings.
* Testing: Always test your lenses after conversion to identify any hot spots. Stop down the aperture (e.g., f/8, f/11) to see if it reduces the hot spot. Some hot spots can be corrected in post-processing, but it's best to avoid them if possible.
4. Infrared Photography Techniques:
* Focusing: Infrared light focuses differently than visible light.
* Live View is Key: Use Live View (if your camera has it) to focus. Magnify the image to ensure sharp focus.
* Manual Focus: Switch to manual focus after achieving focus in Live View. Once locked, note the best focus setting for future use.
* Exposure:
* Metering: Your camera's meter might struggle with IR light. Experiment with manual mode to find the correct exposure.
* Histogram: Use the histogram to ensure you're not clipping highlights or shadows.
* Bracketing: Bracketing your shots (+/- 1 or 2 stops) is helpful, especially in challenging lighting.
* White Balance:
* Custom White Balance: Set a custom white balance to a green area, like grass or foliage, to neutralize the colors. This is less critical for dedicated B&W IR cameras, but important for full-spectrum if capturing any color.
* Post-Processing: You can adjust the white balance in post-processing, but setting it in-camera can save time.
* Composition:
* Look for Contrast: IR landscapes rely on contrast between bright foliage and dark skies/shadows.
* Clouds: Clouds are emphasized in IR due to their reflectivity.
* Water: Water can appear very dark or even black in IR.
* Filters (for Full-Spectrum Conversions):
* IR Filters: Use IR filters to block visible light. Experiment with different wavelengths (e.g., 720nm, 850nm) to achieve various effects.
5. Post-Processing (Black and White Conversion):
* Raw Processing: Shoot in RAW format to preserve the most information.
* White Balance Adjustment: Fine-tune the white balance if needed.
* Channel Mixer: A channel mixer is very helpful in getting the exact black and white rendering you want from IR photos.
* Contrast and Tonal Adjustments:
* Curves: Use curves to adjust the overall contrast and brightness.
* Levels: Adjust the black and white points to maximize contrast.
* Dodging and Burning: Use dodging and burning tools to selectively lighten or darken areas of the image to guide the viewer's eye.
* Sharpening: Sharpen the image, but be careful not to over-sharpen.
* Dust Spot Removal: Remove any dust spots.
* Software: Use programs like Adobe Photoshop, Lightroom, Capture One, or GIMP for post-processing. Dedicated black and white software like Silver Efex Pro can also be beneficial.
Tips for Black and White IR Landscapes:
* Look for Foliage: Healthy, green foliage will appear very bright in IR, creating a unique effect.
* Dramatic Skies: Clouds often look dramatic in IR.
* Water: Water surfaces can appear very dark or even black, providing a stark contrast.
* Architecture: Stone and brick buildings often have interesting textures in IR.
* Experimentation: Don't be afraid to experiment with different filters, settings, and post-processing techniques to find your own style.
* Scout Locations: Scout locations in advance to identify scenes that will work well in IR. Foliage is key.
* Golden Hour/Blue Hour: While the quality of light isn't as critical as with visible light photography, golden hour and blue hour can still add a pleasing atmosphere to your IR images.
In summary, converting a camera for IR black and white landscape photography involves selecting the right conversion type, understanding IR-specific techniques, and mastering post-processing. Practice and experimentation are essential to developing your own unique style.