Understanding the Inspiration
* Shadows and Contrast: The key to these kinds of portraits is the strong interplay of light and shadow. Deep shadows are deliberately used to sculpt the face and add drama.
* Light Placement: Pay attention to where the light source is coming from. In many cases, it's coming from the front but on one side creating an accent light and a distinct light and shadow split.
* Mood: The images typically convey a sense of drama, intensity, mystery, or introspection. The lighting contributes heavily to this mood.
Equipment
* Camera: Any DSLR or mirrorless camera with manual controls (aperture, shutter speed, ISO) will work.
* Lens: A prime lens in the 50mm to 85mm range is ideal for portraits because it creates a flattering perspective and good subject isolation. However, zoom lens will also work if you don't have a prime lens.
* One Light Source:
* Strobe/Flash: A studio strobe with adjustable power is the most versatile. You'll also need a trigger to fire it.
* Speedlight/Hot Shoe Flash: A portable flash unit (speedlight) can work well, especially if you can control its power output.
* Continuous Light: An LED panel or even a strong desk lamp can be used, but it will be harder to get the same power and control as a strobe. You'll need to adjust ISO and aperture accordingly.
* Light Modifier (Important):
* Umbrella: A white shoot-through umbrella will soften the light and create a wider spread. A silver umbrella will create a more specular (harder) light.
* Softbox: Similar to an umbrella, a softbox diffuses the light, creating a softer, more even illumination. Different sizes will affect the softness.
* Reflector: A reflector (white, silver, or gold) can be used to bounce light back into the shadows, reducing the contrast. You can use a piece of white foam core as a DIY reflector.
* Snoot/Grid: A snoot or grid will concentrate the light into a narrow beam, creating a spotlight effect.
* Barn Doors: Barn doors attach to your light and allow you to shape the light and prevent spill.
* Light Stand: To position your light source.
* Background: A dark or neutral background (black, gray, dark brown) is generally preferred to enhance the mood. A seamless paper backdrop is ideal, but a wall will do.
* Optional:
* V-Flat: A V-Flat is a large, black or white board (often two hinged together) used to absorb or reflect light. Black V-Flats are great for reducing spill and increasing contrast.
* Gels: Colored gels can be placed over the light to add a creative color cast.
Steps to Capture the Portrait
1. Setup:
* Background: Position your background behind where your subject will be. Make sure it's clean and uncluttered.
* Subject Placement: Have your subject sit or stand a few feet in front of the background. Experiment with different distances to see how the background falls into shadow.
* Camera Settings: Set your camera to manual mode.
* Aperture: Start with a wider aperture (e.g., f/2.8, f/4, or f/5.6) to blur the background and isolate your subject. Adjust as needed to control the depth of field.
* Shutter Speed: Set your shutter speed to 1/125th or 1/200th of a second (or faster, depending on your flash sync speed). If using continuous light, adjust your shutter speed to achieve proper exposure, keeping in mind that slower shutter speeds will require a steady hand or a tripod.
* ISO: Keep your ISO as low as possible (e.g., ISO 100, ISO 200) to minimize noise. If you are using constant lights, you will need to raise your ISO to a level that allows a reasonable shutter speed and aperture.
* White Balance: Set your white balance according to your light source (e.g., "Flash" if using a strobe, "Tungsten" if using a lamp). You can also set it to "Auto" and adjust it later in post-processing.
* Light Placement: This is the most crucial part.
* Starting Point: Place your light stand to the side of your subject and slightly in front of them. Aim the light towards their face. Think about where you want the shadows to fall.
* Height: Start with the light at or slightly above the subject's eye level. Adjust the height to control the shadows under their nose and chin.
* Distance: The closer the light is to the subject, the softer the light will be. The further away, the harder the light.
* Modifier: Attach your chosen modifier to the light.
2. Metering and Test Shots:
* Flash Meter (If Available): Use a flash meter to measure the light falling on your subject's face. Adjust the power of your flash until you get the desired exposure (e.g., a reading that corresponds to your chosen aperture at ISO 100).
* Test Shots: Take a series of test shots and review them on your camera's LCD screen. Pay close attention to:
* Exposure: Is the image too bright or too dark? Adjust your flash power, aperture, or ISO accordingly.
* Shadows: Are the shadows where you want them? Adjust the light's position (left/right, up/down, forward/backward) to refine the shadows.
* Highlights: Are there any blown-out highlights on your subject's skin? Reduce the flash power or move the light further away if necessary.
3. Posing and Expression:
* Communicate: Give your subject clear directions. Encourage them to relax and express the desired emotion (intensity, contemplation, etc.).
* Angles: Experiment with different angles of the subject's face relative to the light. A slight turn of the head can dramatically change the shadows.
* Eye Contact: Decide whether you want direct eye contact or if you want the subject to look away. Looking away can add to the sense of mystery or introspection.
4. Refinement:
* Small Adjustments: Make small adjustments to the light's position, power, and your subject's pose until you are satisfied with the results.
* Reflector (Optional): If the shadows are too deep, use a reflector to bounce some light back into them. Position the reflector on the opposite side of the light source.
5. Post-Processing:
* RAW Processing: If you shot in RAW format (highly recommended), use software like Adobe Lightroom or Capture One to make adjustments to:
* Exposure: Fine-tune the overall brightness.
* Contrast: Increase contrast to enhance the drama.
* Highlights/Shadows: Recover detail in the highlights and shadows.
* White Balance: Adjust the white balance if needed.
* Sharpening: Add a subtle amount of sharpening.
* Noise Reduction: Reduce noise, especially if you had to use a higher ISO.
* Black and White Conversion (Optional): Consider converting the image to black and white for a more classic and timeless look. Experiment with different black and white conversion techniques to achieve the desired tonality.
* Dodging and Burning: Use dodging and burning techniques to selectively lighten or darken areas of the image, further enhancing the shadows and highlights.
Tips and Considerations
* Experiment: Don't be afraid to experiment with different light positions, modifiers, and poses. The best way to learn is to try things out and see what works.
* Observe: Study the lighting in the inspiration images carefully. Pay attention to the shape and direction of the shadows.
* Practice: The more you practice, the better you will become at understanding and controlling light.
* Model's Features: Consider your model's face shape and features when positioning the light. Some lighting patterns will be more flattering than others.
* Background Color: Lighter backgrounds can make the shadows less prominent. Darker backgrounds will enhance the contrast.
* Light Spill: Be aware of light spilling onto the background. You can use flags (black fabric or foam core) to block the light and prevent it from hitting the background.
* Catchlights: Pay attention to the catchlights in the subject's eyes. They can add life and sparkle to the portrait. Position the light so that it creates a pleasing catchlight.
By following these steps and experimenting with different techniques, you can create beautiful and dramatic one-light portraits inspired by those styles. Good luck!