1. Understanding Aerochrome:
* Infrared Film: Aerochrome is a false-color infrared (IR) film. This means it's sensitive to infrared light in addition to visible light. Healthy vegetation reflects a lot of infrared, which is rendered as bright red in the final image. Other colors are shifted, creating a surreal and dreamlike palette.
* Discontinued, Expensive & Requires Careful Handling: Sadly, genuine Aerochrome is no longer manufactured. Any rolls you find will be expired and likely stored for a long time. This means you'll need to be extra careful with storage, shooting, and processing.
* Expiration Effects: Expect some color shifts and potential fogging due to age. This can actually add to the character of the film, but knowing this beforehand helps manage expectations. Older film can also lose some of its infrared sensitivity.
* False Color: Remember, you're capturing light differently than your eye sees it. Predicting the final result takes practice and understanding of how different subjects reflect infrared light.
2. Before You Shoot:
* Acquire Aerochrome: This is the hardest part. Search online marketplaces (eBay, forums) specializing in film photography. Be prepared to pay a premium.
* Storage is Key: Store your Aerochrome in the freezer to slow down deterioration. Let it thaw slowly to room temperature before loading it into your camera. This prevents condensation.
* Test Rolls: If possible, purchase multiple rolls. Use one as a test to determine the film's current sensitivity and how it responds to different filters and exposure settings. This will save you heartache later.
* Research and Plan: Look at examples of Aerochrome photography online. Pay attention to the subjects, lighting, and filters used. This will help you visualize your own shots.
* Choose the Right Subjects:
* Healthy Vegetation: Lush, green foliage is your best friend. It's what gives Aerochrome its signature red glow.
* Clear Skies: A clear blue sky will often render as a striking light blue or teal.
* Contrast: Look for scenes with strong contrast to highlight the color shifts.
* Landscapes: Wide-open landscapes often work well to showcase the unusual color palette.
* Consider Time of Day: Shooting during the golden hours (sunrise and sunset) can enhance the colors and create softer, more pleasing light. Midday sun can be harsh and wash out some of the effect.
3. Filters:
* Yellow or Orange Filter (Essential): A yellow or orange filter is crucial. It blocks blue light, which improves the saturation and contrast of the infrared effect and helps balance the color palette. A yellow filter provides a subtler effect, while an orange filter produces a more dramatic color shift.
* Red Filter (Optional): A red filter will further enhance the infrared effect but can lead to a very strong, saturated look. Use with caution.
* Infrared (IR) Pass Filter (Optional, Experimentation): An IR pass filter (e.g., 720nm, 830nm) blocks almost all visible light, allowing only infrared light to reach the film. This results in a more extreme and surreal effect. Requires significantly longer exposures and a tripod. Experimentation is key, as expired film might not respond well.
* Filter Factor: Remember that filters block light, so you'll need to compensate by adjusting your aperture or shutter speed. Refer to the filter's documentation for its filter factor. Your test roll will help you determine the best compensation.
4. Camera Settings and Exposure:
* Metering: Accurate metering is vital. Aerochrome is sensitive to infrared light, which your camera's light meter isn't designed to measure.
* Use a Handheld Meter: If possible, use a handheld light meter and meter for the visible light. This will give you a more accurate starting point.
* Sunny 16 Rule: Use the Sunny 16 rule as a baseline and adjust based on your filter and the scene. The Sunny 16 rule states that on a sunny day, with an aperture of f/16, your shutter speed should be the reciprocal of your film's ISO.
* In-Camera Metering with Caution: If you must use your camera's meter, meter off of a neutral gray surface. Be prepared to bracket your shots (shoot several exposures at slightly different settings).
* ISO: Start with the ISO recommended on the film box, but understand that expiration and storage conditions can affect the film's sensitivity. Your test roll is essential here. You might need to overexpose slightly to compensate for lost sensitivity. For expired film, try rating it lower (e.g., shoot ISO 400 film at ISO 200 or 100).
* Aperture: Choose an aperture that provides the depth of field you desire. Stop down (use a smaller aperture like f/8 or f/11) for sharper landscapes.
* Shutter Speed: Adjust your shutter speed based on your meter reading and aperture. Use a tripod, especially when using filters that significantly reduce light transmission or when shooting in low light.
* Bracketing: Especially when starting out, bracket your exposures. Shoot one at your metered setting, one stop overexposed (+1), and one stop underexposed (-1). This gives you a better chance of getting a correctly exposed image.
5. Shooting Tips:
* Firm Grip or Tripod: Use a steady grip or tripod, especially at slower shutter speeds.
* Pay Attention to Composition: Don't forget the fundamentals of good photography. Consider composition, leading lines, and the rule of thirds. The unusual colors of Aerochrome can make even a mundane subject interesting, but a well-composed image will be even better.
* Keep the Camera Clean: Ensure your camera is clean and free of dust.
* Avoid Light Leaks: Aerochrome is susceptible to light leaks, which can ruin your shots. Make sure your camera's light seals are in good condition.
* Be Patient and Experiment: Aerochrome photography requires experimentation. Don't be afraid to try different filters, exposure settings, and subjects.
6. Processing:
* Find a Reliable Lab: Crucially, find a professional lab that is experienced with developing E-6 slide film (the type Aerochrome is). Inform the lab *beforehand* that you are shooting expired film. Some labs are hesitant to process expired film, as it can potentially contaminate their chemicals.
* E-6 Processing: Aerochrome is designed for E-6 slide film processing. Pushing or pulling the film during processing can affect the colors and contrast.
* Cross-Processing (Optional): Some photographers experiment with cross-processing Aerochrome in C-41 (negative film) chemicals. This can produce unique and unpredictable results, but it's not guaranteed to work and could damage the film. Research this thoroughly before attempting it.
* Consider Home Processing: If you are experienced with E-6 processing, you can develop the film at home. This gives you more control over the process and allows you to experiment with different techniques.
7. Digital Scanning:
* Flatbed Scanner: A flatbed scanner with a transparency adapter is a good option for scanning Aerochrome.
* Dedicated Film Scanner: A dedicated film scanner will generally produce higher-quality scans with better detail and dynamic range.
* Software: Use scanning software that allows you to adjust the color balance and contrast.
* Dust and Scratch Removal: Use dust and scratch removal tools to clean up your scans.
* Color Correction: Aerochrome scans often require some color correction. Adjust the levels, curves, and color balance to achieve the desired look.
8. Key Takeaways:
* Aerochrome is rare and expensive. Treat it with respect.
* Testing is essential due to the film's age and potential degradation.
* Filters are crucial for achieving the signature Aerochrome look.
* Accurate exposure is vital, but expect to bracket your shots.
* Find a reliable lab experienced with E-6 processing.
* Be prepared to experiment and learn from your results.
Shooting Aerochrome can be challenging, but the unique and beautiful images it produces are well worth the effort. Good luck and enjoy the experience!